fall has arrived … Apple Pear Crisp

It’s a repeating theme.  Yet again, I came home from the farmer’s market with too much fruit.  Though perhaps “too much” is relative.  My co-worker at the orchard stand said I had a problem.  I suppose he has a point  – I did it three times last week.  I just can’t stand it when good, usable fruit and vegetables are wasted.  I know I can do something with it all.  I know I can!  The only thing is sometimes it does become a bit of a problem … not enough storage, not enough time.

There’s a lesson buried in the bottom of all these bags and bushels, I just know it.  Some might say don’t bite off more than you can chew.  Oh shush.  I think it’s really to use produce seasonally when it’s at its peak, buy extra while it’s cheap and find some way to use it or preserve it.  Then wait ‘til next year.  There’s a reason peaches taste like crap in February.  I’m certain that we all know this, just don’t necessarily practice it.  I’m just as guilty with strawberries in the winter.  Cravings are hard to deny sometimes.

I do try to follow seasonality and buy local when I can but since I’ve been working at the farmers market it’s become a little ridiculous.  I tell myself frequently, that’s it.  No more.  Then I can’t pass it up.  This summer, I’ve made at least two dozen batches of jam, pickles and chutneys plus pies and tarts up the wazoo.  My neighbors must think I’m running a restaurant out of my apartment.

And the thing is, I love it.  I know how lucky I am to have all this great produce literally handed to me.  It is the ultimate enabler in a stress baking relationship.  It just keeps coming!  The stuff I get isn’t perfect.  It’s bruised, has a few wormholes, a couple dents.  But then who am I to judge what’s perfect?  I’m a little scratched and bruised myself.

It’s peaches and apples and pears that have been deemed not good enough for the customer.  Wild strawberries – those amazing fraise de boise – that are a bit soft, have a teensy bit of mold.  Melons with a smooshy blossom end.  Fruit that is so ripe it won’t make it to the next market day.  They’re all put aside until the end of the day, sorted through and some tossed.  But first, I get that look from my co-workers.  You know the look.  The one that says “Hey, crazy fruit lady.  Are you seriously going to take all this?”

And so I do.  A bushel of peaches that are just this side of turning.  An enormous bag of  bruised pears, so fragrant a line of bees follows me to the car.  Apples that are misshapen and look like they’ve been in a tussle or two and lost.

But if you wash them ever so carefully and trim away the gnarly bits, there’s some good stuff underneath the dirty coat.  That’s where I come in.  Me.  The crazy fruit lady.  The savior of banged up fruit.

Today, I opened my fridge and was assaulted with the sweet delicious scent of super ripe pears and apples.  It made me a little light headed.  I decided it was time to take the enormous bowl off the bottom shelf and make a few fruit crisps.  This is my go-to recipe when I want something easy and delicious that uses a ton of fruit.  You can go through a mess of fruit pretty quickly with this one.  Plus, I’m completely addicted to the crumb topping especially right out of the oven.  I’ve even considered skipping the fruit entirely and just baking a batch of topping.  I haven’t done it yet but I’m sure it’s just a matter of time.  The original recipe is a classic – right out of The Fannie Farmer Cookbook – and it bakes up golden brown and absolutely beautiful.

The topping method is rather unusual and that’s what makes it so dang delicious.  Flour, sugar and baking powder are mixed together then an egg is worked in to make a coarse crumb.  This is piled on top of fruit in a baking dish and a stick of melted butter is poured on top of the crumbs.  Yep, the butter is poured on top rather than worked into the crumbs.  I know, weird huh?  It bakes up into the most delicious, buttery, crunchy topping.  Quite wonderful.  Just try not to pick at the edges when it comes out of the oven.  I dare you.

For the fruit, you can use whatever you want – stone fruits, berries, apples, pears.  Mix and match if you like.  I’ve tried them all.  To the original recipe, I’ve made a few variations.  I like to add a little sugar, fresh lemon juice and spices to the fruit.  Ginger and nutmeg is nice with apples and pears so that’s what I use.  I also add a little cornstarch to thicken any juices that the fruit gives off.

While baking today, the most wonderful aroma filled my apartment.  It’s autumn, plain and simple. Buttery and warm, spicy and wonderful.  The best part?  I made two and gave them away to some very excited people.  Bake and release.  That feels good.

STESS BAKING THERAPY FACTOR:  SKY HIGH. Finding excellent uses for excess fruit:  check!   Making the whole building smell buttery, warm and wonderful:  check!  Making people smile when you unexpectedly hand them warm home baked treats:  yeah, it’s cheesy but double check!  Very therapeutic all round.

FALL PEAR AND APPLE CRISP – adapted from The Fannie Farmer Cookbook by Marion Cunningham

Serves 6-8
For the apples, a combination of varieties is best.  In a pinch, Granny Smith and Golden Delicious are always available.  Keep in mind you can make this with any fruit – fresh or frozen – that you have on hand.  Berries, plums, peaches, apples, pears – it all works wonderfully.  Mix them up – apples and pears, peaches and blueberries, triple berry or add something zippy like dried cranberries or candied ginger.  Vary the spices for the fruit you’re using too – cinnamon, cloves, even black pepper or a pinch of chili powder for an unexpected zing!

For the fruit:
3-4 ripe Bartlett pears
2-3 apples
juice from ½ lemon (about 1 Tablespoons)
2 teaspoons cornstarch
½ cup sugar
pinch of kosher salt
½ teaspoon ground ginger
few gratings of fresh nutmeg (or 1/8 teaspoon)

For the topping:
1 cup unbleached all-purpose flour
1 cup sugar
1 teaspoon baking powder
¼ teaspoon kosher salt
1 large egg, lightly beaten
½ cup unsalted butter, melted (1 stick/4 ounces)

1. Preheat oven to 375°F and place a rack in the lower third of the oven.
2. For the fruit:  peel, core and slice the apples and pears into 1/8” slices.
3. Gently toss the fruit with the lemon juice, cornstarch, sugar, salt, ginger and allspice.
4. Pour the fruit into a 9”x9” baking pan, place on a baking sheet (to catch drips) and set aside.
5. For the topping:  in a medium bowl, combine the flour, sugar, baking powder and salt.
6. Make a well in the center and pour in the beaten egg.
7. With a wooden spoon (or your hands), work the egg into the dry ingredients until the mixture resembles coarse crumbs.
8. Pour the crumb mixture on top of the fruit, spreading evenly.
9. Slowly pour the melted butter right on top of the crumbs making sure you try to distribute it as evenly as possible.
10. Bake in the preheated oven for 30-35 minutes until golden brown and bubbly.
11. Let cool and serve with vanilla ice cream or whipped cream.  Or both.
12. This is best enjoyed the same day it’s baked while the topping is crunchy but it’s still good a day or two later.  Keep at room temperature, tightly wrapped.