creole lady marmalade … Sweet Orange Rolls

Did you know it was National Marmalade Week?  Neither did I yet there it was, an email informing me of this momentous occasion right in my inbox. It was a strange coincidence too because I made two recipes containing orange marmalade just that morning.  Serendipitous?  I think so.  Had I known such an event was upon us, I would have posted sooner but I don’t need a so-called “National” occasion to celebrate marmalade.  It’s one of my favorite things so I guess you could say every week is Marmalade Week in my house.  Yes, things are just as exciting as you always suspected.

This mindset also explains why I was sitting on a kitchen stool eating it off a spoon and trying to recall why I had three open jars in the fridge.  At least, I reasoned, each was slightly different – one, a last ditch attempt to use up clementines that seemed to be multiplying in the produce drawer, another a crazy beautiful crimson shade from a score of blood oranges and the final one, a chunky version dotted with apricots in a delicious yet unsuccessful attempt to recreate Sarabeth’s Orange-Apricot Marmalade.  Too many half filled jars.  Something needed to be done, I thought licking the spoon.

When the Saveur 100 issue came out earlier this year, I slowly thumbed through making mental notes I would likely soon forget.  Ochazuke? Interesting.  I learned my cherished cast iron lamb cake mold was from Griswold Cast Iron.  Hot damn.  A new list of places to visit and meals to enjoy was taking shape as well.  Toward the end, at #91, a photo of some sweet rolls had me completely mesmerized.  Sweet Orange Buns.  How delightful.  I filed the thought away and moved onto more pressing matters.  Weeks later, as I sat on that stool in the center of my sunny little kitchen, I remembered those orange rolls.  No time like the present.

Still perched on the stool, I pulled my laptop on my knees and took a look at Saveur’s recipe.  It seemed like a good one but I’m rather fond of my cinnamon roll dough and thought with a few tweaks it would work well.  I added a good dose of fresh orange zest and worked a nice schmear of that marmalade into the filling before rolling the dough into a spiraled log.  For the icing, always the most important part in my opinion, a powdered sugar/OJ combo was perfect and I slathered it thickly on the cooled rolls.

Right out of the gate, on the first try, they were a hit.  I love when that happens.  Soft, pillowy and not overly sweet, they packed a delicate citrus punch with bits of chewy marmalade pieces strewn randomly through the coils.  I rather liked them, ate two in quick succession and called it dinner.  Will they replace my favorite cinnamon or sticky pecan rolls? Probably not replace per se, but they’re a welcome addition and one I’ll make with great frequency.  With spring on the horizon (or maybe it’s here – who knows anymore), these rolls are perfect for the grey days that are sure to come in these parts.  Sweet Rolls that bring their own kind of sunshine.

Funny thing … when I went back to drop in the links on this post I took a closer look at the Saveur photo.  Didn’t realize how closely I mirrored it in my opening shot until after the fact.  I think that recipe tester and I are kindred spirits as it appears we both ate two rolls before shooting.  Feed the cook has always been my personal mantra.

STRESS BAKING THERAPY FACTOR:  MORE, MORE, MORE!  That might be a little abstract but picture Patti LaBelle singing and it completely fits.  These are fantastic.  Make them now and then again next week.  The dough itself is beautiful – moist and a little sweet, the chunks of marmalade are a wonderful surprise and the orange-y glaze just seals the deal.  Trust me, they’ll become a house favorite.

On this blog one year ago:  Fresh Pazcki (for Pazcki Day of course, which was later last year)
On this blog two years ago:  Wedding Cake Stories
Other delicious things with marmalade:  Blood Orange Marmalade, Marmalade Yogurt Cake

SWEET ORANGE ROLLS
Makes about 12 rolls

for the dough:
1 package active dry yeast (2 ¼ teaspoons)
¼ cup warm water (105º – 115º F)
1 ½ cups buttermilk
3 Tablespoons sugar
½ teaspoon baking soda
½ cup vegetable oil
zest of 1 orange
4 ½ unbleached all-purpose flour
4 Tablespoons unsalted butter, room temperature

for the filling:
1-2 Tablespoons unsalted butter, softened (for greasing the pans)
1 egg, lightly beaten
½ cup sugar
½ teaspoon kosher salt
½ cup orange marmalade
4 Tablespoons unsalted butter, softened (½ stick)

for the icing:
2 cups powdered sugar
3 Tablespoons fresh orange juice
zest of 1 orange
½ teaspoon vanilla
¼ teaspoon kosher salt

1. for the dough:  In the bowl of a standing mixer, sprinkle yeast over the warm water, stirring until dissolved.  Let sit 5 minutes until foamy.
2. In a medium saucepan (or in the microwave) heat the buttermilk until just warm to the touch (105º – 115º F).
3. To the yeast, on medium speed with the dough hook attachment add the buttermilk, sugar, baking soda, vegetable oil and orange zest.  Mix on medium then add the flour.
4. Start on medium and increase the speed as needed until dough comes together and a ball forms and pulls away from the sides of the bowl.  Continue mixing until a smooth dough is formed.
5. On medium speed, add the butter 1 Tablespoon at a time until smooth and incorporated.  The dough might break up, look clumpy or greasy – give it a little time and it will smooth out.  Mix until the butter has been worked into the dough, scraping the bowl as needed.
6. Turn dough out to a lightly floured surface and knead by hand for 1-2 minutes to make sure all ingredients are well incorporated.
7. First rise:  Place dough in a lightly greased bowl, cover with plastic wrap and let rise 1 – 1 ½ hours in a warm place until doubled in bulk.
8. For the filling:  Combine the sugar and salt in a small bowl and set aside.
9. Assemble:  Grease the sides and bottoms a 9”x13” cake pan with the softened butter and set aside.
10. Place the dough on a lightly floured surface and gently roll into a 10” x 18” rectangle.
11. Brush the entire dough rectangle with the beaten egg.
12. Spread the orange marmalade evenly on the dough, leaving ½” clean border along the long side nearest you.
13. Sprinkle the surface evenly with the sugar and dot with the 4 Tablespoons of softened butter, leaving that ½” border clean.
14. Roll up the rectangle starting with the long side furthest from you (the clean edge will make sealing the roll easier); lightly pinch the edge to seal.
15. With a serrated knife, cut the dough log into twelve 1 ½”-2” pieces and place cut side up into prepared pan.  Be sure not to crowd the rolls so there’s room for expansion.
16. Second rise: Cover loosely with plastic wrap and let rise 30-60 minutes in a warm place until doubled.
17. While rolls are rising, preheat oven to 375ºF.
18. Bake:  Bake the rolls in the bottom rack of the oven for 20-25 minutes until golden brown.
19. Cool on a wire rack until completely cooled, at least 30 minutes.
20. For the icing:  In a small bowl whisk together the powdered sugar, orange juice, orange zest, vanilla and salt until smooth.
21. Smear about 1 Tablespoon of icing on each roll with a spoon. The rolls are best served shortly after baking but will keep pretty well for a day or two if tightly wrapped.