the most apple of apple pies … Cider Apple Pie

Does anyone need another recipe for apple pie? Maybe. Hell, I’ve got three of them on this blog, each one a little different. Guess it depends on what you’re looking for but I think that there’s always room for another. I’ve covered the bases – classic, amped up with salted caramel and even fancy in a French inspired tart. But what about an apple pie that was completely packed with pure apple flavor, holding nothing back? Scoot over and make some room; there’s a new addition to the line up.

A friend of mine, Farmer Pete, has an orchard in Michigan where he grows all kinds of fruit, chief among them apples. Twenty-six different kinds in peak season, I believe. A few weeks ago, I bought 10 of those varieties because I just couldn’t resist. How could anyone? With no real plan and a need to stock up on apples before they were gone, I over filled the largest bag I owned. I also picked up a quart of his single varietal cider, this one from 100% Jonathan apples because it’s my favorite. Once home, I left the apples on the table, shoved the cider in the refrigerator and promptly left both to deal with later, my chaotic thoughts already moving on to other things.

Due to lack of fridge space and because they were simply gorgeous, my enormous apple collection sat in a giant bowl on my dining room table for quite a while. Part decorative centerpiece, part functional reality, their heavy sweet scent quickly perfumed the apartment, a strong reminder of my tendency to over-buy. Every day I passed them on my way to the kitchen and received a heady slap in the face that I had no plan. Zero. I needed to do something with them. Soon. Then I panicked when the buildings’ heat turned on, afraid they’d ripen too quickly or even rot. Agitated and still without a plan, I shoved them in the fridge to buy a little time.

And I thought about the dilemma some more. What could I make? There really was only one answer. Pie! That would use up quite a few. Maybe even make a good size dent in my apple stash. Yes indeed, I’d make a pie. That same day, a friend and I got into a discussion about, you guessed it, apple pie. I told her I craved a pie that wasn’t too sweet, where the flavor was pure apple in all its glory. She endorsed the idea and signed on to be the official taster. But first, I had to figure it out.

I reached into the fridge to remove the enormous bowl and the quart of forgotten cider tumbled out, ever so slightly swollen. Dammit. I may have waited too long. A quick taste determined that while still good, it was on the edge maybe even moments before completely surrendering to fermentation and needed to be consumed very soon. Or did it? I knew from past experience that reducing fresh cider to a syrup would improve its keeping qualities and give me an extra week or two. These days it’s all about buying some time.

But that thought reminded me of a delicious apple cider compote I make when I often find myself in these situations. With a few tweaks, it would be amazing in pie form. And it was – not too sweet but intense in the best possible way and full of fantastic apple flavor. We have a winner! The official tasting panel was over the moon. Time to add another apple pie to the repertoire.

A few notes … regarding the pastry, use your favorite recipe. I have my standard butter crust below but sometimes I’ll do a lard crust, a combo butter/shortening pastry and I’m a big fan of the Cooks Illustrated Vodka Crust. Pick one. Personally, I love them all. Sophie’s Choice.

As for apples, I stand firm on one point in particular: a mix of varieties is absolutely best. At the very least, use Golden Delicious and Granny Smith in equal measure. But it’ll be better, a lot better, if you work in some Jonathans, Gala’s or whatever else you can find. My pie, in an embarrassment of riches, consisted of Jonathan, Mutsu, Senchu, Golden Grimes, Golden Delicious, Honeycrisp, Macintosh, Gala, both Ida and Paula Reds and maybe even a Wolf River. I think. I tend to loose track once I get all those apples home but let’s just say those varieties, in varying quantities, were in that giant bowl so odds are they were in the pie too.

STRESS THERAPY BAKING FACTOR:

other Apple Pie recipes on this blog:  Classic Apple Pie, Lattice Love – pie crust tips, Salted Caramel Apple Pie, French Apple Tart
on this blog five years ago: Adventures in India
on this blog four years ago: Bacon Cheddar Gougeres (cheese puffs), Christmas Cookie Primer
on this blog three years ago: Cookbook Gift List
on this blog two years ago: Kale & Roasted Squash Salad
on this blog last year: Pumpkin Spice Granola

CIDER APPLE PIE
Makes one 9” pie, serves 8-10

For the double crust:
2 ¼ cups unbleached all-purpose flour
½ teaspoon kosher salt
13 ½ Tablespoons unsalted butter, cold
4 ½ Tablespoons ice water

For the filling:
1 quart apple cider, reduced to ½ cup
4 pounds apples peeled, cored, cut into ¾” thick slices, then halved crosswise
2 Tablespoons unsalted butter
1/3 cup light brown sugar
½ teaspoon ground cinnamon
¼ teaspoon kosher salt
3 Tablespoons cornstarch
3 Tablespoons water
1 Tablespoons unsalted butter

1. For the double crust: In a food processor or large bowl, pulse or whisk together the flour and salt.
2. Work the butter into the flour mixture until it’s the size of small peas – in the food processor, just a few pulses or in a large bowl, use your hands or a pastry blender to break the butter into smaller pieces.  Don’t overwork.
3. Sprinkle in the ice water, and pulse the food processor until it just comes together or by stirring and gently working together by hand.
4. Turn the dough out on a lightly floured surface and give it a few gentle turns to bring it all together.
5. Divide the dough into two pieces, one just slightly larger than the other, pat each into a flat disc and wrap in plastic wrap.
6. Refrigerate for 1 hour, overnight or freeze up to 2 months.
7. Preheat oven to 425°F and place a rack in the lowest position.
8. For the reduced cider: place the cider in a medium saucepan and bring to a boil.
9. Lower the heat to medium – medium-high and reduce the cider to ½ cup. Keep an eye on the pot, the second you walk away, it will boil over. This will take a while – about ½ hour.
10. For the filling: In a large pot, melt the butter over medium heat.
11. Add the cider syrup, brown sugar, cinnamon and salt and stir to combine.
12. Add the apples and toss to combine.
13. Increase the heat to high and bring to a boil, stirring often until the sugar is dissolved and the apples are evenly coated.
14. In a small bowl, combine the cornstarch and water to a slurry.
15. Add the slurry to the pot and stir until thickened, about 1 minute. You want to activate the starches, not cook the apples.
16. Assemble the pie: on a lightly floured surface, roll out the slightly larger piece of pastry first, into a 12” round.  Make sure to keep the dough moving – if it sticks, gently flour the surface and the top and continue rolling.
17. Roll the pastry up onto the rolling pin and unroll into the 9” pie tin, gently easing the pastry into the pan.  If needed, trim the pastry to an even ¾” overhang.
18. Place on the prepared sheet pan, brush the pastry edge with the egg wash and pour in the apple filling.
19. Dot the apples with the 1 Tablespoon of butter.
20. Roll out the smaller piece of pastry in the same manner to a 10” circle.
21. Roll the second piece of pastry up on the rolling pin and unroll on top of the filled pie shell, pressing gently to adhere the pastry edges.
22. Trim the pastry, if needed, with a pair of scissors to even up then fold edges of dough under, pressing to make a firm seal.
23. Using your fingers or a fork, decoratively crimp the edges.  (see tips on how to do this here.)
24. Brush the top of the pie with the egg wash and sprinkle evenly with sugar.
25. Make a few slits in the top crust for steam vents.
26. Place the pie on a parchment paper lined sheet pan and bake until the crust is golden and the apples are tender when pierced with a knife, about 55 minutes. If the top starts browning too quickly, cover the pie with foil.