“Street Food” has been a big, hot food trend for the last few years with everyone and their brother doing some sort of riff. In the right circumstances, it can be a wondrous thing. On a late night in Bangkok, I had the best fried chicken of my life made in a wok perched on the back of a bicycle. The scenery was gorgeous, the cooking set-up was unbelievable and stunningly resourceful and the chicken is something I still dream about. If it hadn’t been 3am when I got back to my hotel, I would have gone back for more. I’ve eaten freshly fried samosas wrapped in newspaper from an Indian doorway, bite size water buffalo dumplings from a giant steamer set up in a Nepalese courtyard and countless tacos from beach peddlers. They were all spectacular. My best travel memories often involve food.
In terms of Mexican street food, one hears an awful lot about “elote”– grilled corn on the cob, smeared with mayonnaise, rolled in a dry grated cheese called cotija, sprinkled with chili and a squirt of fresh lime juice. It’s the stuff of legends but I’ll be honest … I’ve never had a legit street version. True story. I’ve had riffs on elote in restaurants, elote inspired salads, even an elote inspired polenta but I’ve never eaten an ear of corn from a dude with a street cart.
When I think about why this might be, I can only think of one answer. I can’t recall a single instance when I’ve seen it. I don’t know how that’s possible but it’s true. Maybe the carts I frequent outside my favorite Mexican grocery stores do in fact sell them but I’m dazzled instead by the tamales or the giant juicy mangoes on a stick, doused with lime and chili powder. Now those are something special. I must not be paying attention. Another possibility might be that quality sweet corn is available for such a short period that I just might be missing the window. Who knows.
But I love the flavors – sweet corn, salty cheese, zippy chili and tangy lime. How do you not want that at a summer bbq? If you’re hosting, this is a lot easier to pull off. Grill the ears (yes, they will take up the whole grill so be prepared), then slather with the mayo, a quick roll in the cheese and a doze of lime and chili. But if someone else is hosting? This can be a challenge. Whole ears of corn are cumbersome to lug around and it would be rude dominate the host’s grill. Plus there’s the typical party guesswork of how many to make. It’s a lot to deal with. So I simplify the process and make a salad.
With a couple easy adaptions, this salad delivers the flavors of elote without the cobs and is easy to transport and serve. This works particularly well for those that can’t eat corn on the cob – braces, dentures, fake teeth and the like. Those people will be forever grateful to you. Less muss, less fuss. This is also why you should make twice as much as you think. It disappears quickly.
As I mentioned in a previous corn salad post, you can get a good char on that corn one of two ways. You can grill it of course but if you don’t feel like firing up the grill, do what I do: stir-fry it in a nice hot wok. It’s easy. The Asians really know what’s what.
Then you combine those charred kernels with the basic elote flavors – lime juice, cayenne for some heat and cilantro. Cotija would be traditional but I’ve used grated parmesan in a pinch. But I do something a little different. Rather than adding mayonnaise and/or sour cream, I use olive oil. Truth is, I’m not the biggest fan of mayonnaise and I prefer the clean fruity flavor that olive oil brings to the dish. If you like, you can certainly add in a creamy element. It’s your call.
STRESS THERAPY BAKING FACTOR: MUY BUENO. Midwest sweet corn at it’s peak is on the short list of amazing foods. Boiled, steamed, grilled … it’s all good. But mix in those tart, sweet, spicy, creamy flavors from a classic elote? Oh yes please please. This is a party pleaser of a dish without the hassle of whole ears of corn. Guests can take as much or as little as they like, with refills a plenty. Trust me. They will go back for more.
Six years ago: Panzanella
Five years ago: Bacon Waffles
Four years ago: Fresh Tomato Tart
Three years ago: Bastille Day Lunch – Figgy BBQ Sauce
Two years ago: Apricot Jam
Last year: Fresh Mint Limeade (Would be really great with this salad. Just sayin’)
Other fresh corn recipes: Sweet Corn Soup, Roasted Ratatouille with Sweet Corn Polenta, Sweet Corn Pudding, Summer Corn & Tomato Salad. You could add fresh corn kernels to this one, which would be really nice – Aunt Patti’s Cornbread. And this one doesn’t use any fresh corn but is really fun and would be perfect at that late summer bbq – Sweet Corn Cookies with Salt & Pepper Buttercream
MEXICAN CORN SALAD
Makes about 5 cups but can be multiplied easily
4 ears sweet corn, husked
1 Tablespoon vegetable oil
2 Tablespoons good fruity olive oil (or you can use mayonnaise or sour cream)
¼ teaspoon ground cayenne
½ teaspoon lime zest
3 Tablespoons fresh lime juice
¾ teaspoon kosher salt
¼ teaspoon ground black pepper
3 Tablespoons cotija cheese (or grated parmesan)
3 Tablespoon fresh cilantro, chopped
- Cut the kernels from the cob; you should have around 5-6 cups. If you have a grill, by all means, grill the corn on the cob then cut the kernels once cool.
- Heat a heavy-duty skillet or a large work over high heat with a Tablespoon of vegetable oil until smoking.
- Add the corn and sauté/stir fry until slightly charred. Take care as the corn has a tendency to pop and spatter, which is why I prefer the larger surface area of a wok. Cover if you like to contain the escaping rebels.
- Transfer the corn to a bowl and allow to cool.
- To the corn, add the cotija (or parmesan), olive oil, cilantro, cayenne, lime zest and juice and salt and pepper to taste. Note: if using parmesan, go easy on the salt at first then add more as needed as it’s is saltier than cotija.
- Serve at room temperature for best flavor. Eat.
STRESSCAKE 
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