Day 5 … Chai Spiced Meringue Kisses

Here we are, Day 5 of the 12 Day of Cookies. Today it’s something a little different – meringues, specifically a meringue with the flavors of masala chai. 15 pounds of butter has passed through my kitchen in the last two weeks alone, which isn’t all that unusual but maybe it’s time for a short break. This recipe is butter-free, not something you often see in a holiday cookie recipe and is a fairly simple combination of egg whites, sugar and spices. They also are not peppermint, something I find hard to avoid in a holiday meringue, yet still fall within the festive thematic with the winter-y spices. They’re a satisfying and crunchy counterpoint to all that chocolate, butter and salty caramel on the holiday cookie platter and unusual enough to be special. Because special is necessary criteria for a holiday cookie. I’ve said it before and I’ll say it again: this is not the time for a chocolate chip cookie. No.

Based on masala chai, the Indian tea blend I find so addictive, the flavor comes from black tea blended with the typical chai spices – cardamom, cloves, cinnamon, ginger and a little kick from some white pepper. While you can certainly use a plain black tea from a tea bag, I prefer to buy a small bag of bulk tea from a specialty store or Whole Foods. When faced with the option of buying a box of 72 tea bags or a small bag of loose tea, guess which I choose? As for tea types, go for a plain, unflavored black tea. Assam, Ceylon or Darjeeling are all good candidates and a small bag is relatively inexpensive. Grind it until fine and combine with the spices and you’ll have an incredibly flavorful powder to fold into a stiffly whipped meringue. I prefer them piped into pretty kisses but you could scoop them into small mounds if you like.

Then it’s time for a long bake. I have a particularly fussy ancient oven. It doesn’t like low temperatures and it doesn’t like meringues. Over time, I’ve found that the variable heat method works best for me in these instances – start at 400°F and reduce the heat in increments over time. That’s the thing to remember: meringues are not a fast bake. The moisture needs to be slowly evaporated for that crisp texture. It’s also why making meringues on a rainy/humid day can be so challenging. These things just suck up the moisture so be aware of this potential pitfall. Also keep in mind they continue to crisp up a little out of the oven but if you’re not sure if they’re done, there’s one true method: taste it.

STRESS THERAPY BAKING FACTOR: WHIP IT GOOD. Do you have a bowl of egg whites in the refrigerator that keeps getting pushed around until you can figure out what to do with it? It happens this time of year when an inordinate amount of holiday cookie recipes contain high proportions of egg yolks and butter. Oh, I know. I feel your pain. How many egg white omelets can one realistically eat? That’s when you bust this recipe out. Though it only uses 3 whites, it’s a start. It’s also an easy one when you have people with food allergies – no gluten, no lactose, big flavor. Throw those poor folks a bone.

six years ago: Pumpkin Bundt Cake, Adventures in India
five years ago: Christmas Cookie Primer
four years ago: Cookbook Gift List
three years ago: Kale & Squash Salad
two years ago: Pumpkin Spice Granola
last year: Cider Apple Pie
12 Days of Cookies Recap so far:
— Day 1 – Pretzel Caramel Shortbread
— Day 2 – Fig Mezzaluna
— Day 3 – Dutch Windmills
— Day 4 – Bourbon Peach Rugelah

CHAI SPICED MERINGUE KISSES
Makes 3 dozen

For the chai tea powder:
3 Tablespoons plain black loose leaf tea (½ ounce or 2 black leaf tea bags)
¼ teaspoon cardamom
1/8 teaspoon ground cloves
¼ teaspoon ground cinnamon
1/8 teaspoon ground ginger
1/8 teaspoon ground white pepper

for the meringues:
3 large egg whites, room temperature (3 ounces)
1/8 teaspoon cream of tartar
¾ cup sugar
2 teaspoons cornstarch
½ teaspoon vanilla extract
¼ teaspoon fine sea salt
½ teaspoon finely grated fresh ginger

1. For the chai tea powder: add the tea leaves to a clean spice grinder and grind to a fine powder.
2. Transfer to a small bowl and stir in the cardamom, cloves, cinnamon, ginger and white pepper. Set aside until needed.
3. Preheat the oven to 400°F and line 1-2 sheet pans with parchment paper.
4. For the meringue: In the bowl of a standing mixer fitted with the whisk attachment, whip the egg whites and cream of tartar on medium speed until foamy.
5. Reduce the speed to medium-low and gradually add the sugar in a steady stream.
6. Increase the speed to high and beat until thick and shiny and firm peak, about 3-4 minutes.
7. Sift the cornstarch over the mixture then add the reserved chai tea powder, vanilla, salt and grated ginger; gently fold until just incorporated and no powdery pockets remain.
8. Place a dab of meringue underneath each corner of the parchment paper on the sheet pans and press the paper down to keep it in place.
9. Fit a pastry bag with a ½” open star tip and fill halfway with the meringue.
10. Pipe kisses by holding the pasty bag straight up over the lined sheet pan. Apply pressure to the bag while lifting upward, release the pressure and pull the bag up to release the meringue. This takes a little practice but the good news is if you don’t like how they look, scrape up the offending kisses, add the meringue back to the pastry bag and carry on.
11. To bake: Place the meringues into the oven and immediately reduce the heat to 300°
12. Bake for 15 minutes then turn the tray and bake for an additional 10 minutes (25 minutes total at this temperature.)
13. Reduce to 275°F and bake for an additional 30 minutes.
14. Turn oven off and leave in for an additional 30 minutes. The meringues should be hard to the touch and if not, leave for additional 10-15 minutes. Once cooled, meringues will have a crisp shell. Store in an airtight container up to 3 days and avoid all moisture.

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