upping the lunchbox game … Whole Wheat Spiced Fig Bars

If you were following along last month, then you’re aware I did a little 12 Days of Cookies thing for the holidays. If you weren’t, well, I did a little 12 Days of Cookies thing for the holidays. The second post of the series was Fig Mezzaluna, delicate little pastry moons filled with the most delicious, spiced fig filling. Ever since, I’ve been thinking about that damn filling and coming up with ideas on what else I could make with it. What could I wrap that wondrous concoction in? It would make a fantastic baklava kind of thing, nestled between layers of phyllo and drizzled with honey. It could fill some fantastic thumbprint cookies. My thoughts also turned to Fig Newtons, naturally. I grew up in the 70’s. Of course I’d think of Fig Newtons. How good would that filling be wrapped up in a nutty, whole wheat dough? I swooned to think of it.

I ate a lot of Fig Newtons as a kid. This was in the healthy spurt of the time where carob was seen as a replacement for chocolate – it is not – and whole wheat was working it’s way into things. Much like now, come to think of it. For whatever reason, my mother determined that Fig Newtons were an acceptable cookie to have around the house and in lunchboxes, which was fine by me because I really liked them. Soft and cakey with this unusually soft but curiously crunchy filling, I could put away a half dozen in no time. Fig seeds have always been a mystery to me.

So guess what I made with that wonderful fig filling? You bet. Fig Newtons. Well, sort of. Let’s say that I made a lightly spiced whole wheat dough and wrapped it around that delectable filling that were Newton-esqe in looks only. I doubt that Nabisco (or whomever makes them now) is soaking their figs in brandy. Maybe they should because these cookies are dangerously good. I worked some complimentary flavors into the dough too – orange, honey, a bit of baking spices. Enclosed the filling into neat little logs and sprinkled a bit of crunchy sugar on top, they give those ‘ol Newtons a run for their money.

The dough is very soft and cakey and thus, a bit of a challenge to work with. If you keep it well chilled, things will be much easier. Due to this and the 8 hour booze bath for the filling, they are not a cookie that comes together quickly but the time spent will result in a great reward.

STRESS THERAPY BAKING FACTOR: SNAPS ALL AROUND. Let’s not kid ourselves. Whole wheat flour aside, I wouldn’t say these are “healthy cookies” in any way. However, I will concede that it adds a lovely flavor, a bit of nuttiness, that I very much like. And the filling … well we know that I also very much like this filling. What you have here is an interesting cookie, one a step beyond the typical cookie jar favorites, one that will up your lunch box game. An elevated fig Newton, if you will. And remember, if you squint in just the right way, these could be seen as a healthy cookie.

Seven years ago: Sunchoke Soup
Six years ago: Classic White Sandwich Bread, Baked Squash Bread Pudding
Five years ago: Quiche Lorraine and Tips for Caramelizing Onions, Molasses Bran Muffins, Music in the Kitchen
Four years ago: Roasted Banana Sorbet, Sweet Corn Cookies with Salt & Pepper Buttercream
Three years ago: Creamsicles, Caramel Corn Rice Krispie Treats
Two years ago: Baked Jelly Donuts, Potato Pizza
Last year: Flourless Double Chocolate Cookies

WHOLE WHEAT SPICED FIG BARS
Makes 3 ½ dozen

For the fig filling:
½ cup packed soft dried Mission figs (4 ounces), coarsely chopped, hard tips discarded
6 Tablespoons golden raisins
6 Tablespoons mild honey
2 Tablespoons brandy
¾ teaspoon finely grated fresh orange zest
½ teaspoon finely grated fresh lemon zest
1 ½ teaspoons ground cinnamon
1/8 teaspoon ground cloves
1/8 teaspoon freshly grated nutmeg
¼ teaspoon kosher salt

For the dough:
½ cup unbleached all-purpose flour
½ cup whole wheat flour
1/8 teaspoon baking soda
¼ teaspoon kosher salt
1/8 teaspoon ground cinnamon
1/8 teaspoon ground cloves
6 Tablespoons unsalted butter, room temperature
¼ cup light brown sugar
1 teaspoon orange zest
1 Tablespoon honey
1 teaspoon vanilla extract
2 large egg yolks
1 Tablespoon fresh orange juice

1 large egg, lightly beaten (or the egg wash)

1. For the filling: Pulse figs and raisins in a food processor until finely chopped.
2. Transfer to a medium bowl, add the remaining filling ingredients (honey, brandy, orange and lemon zests, cinnamon, cloves, nutmeg and salt) and stir to combine.
3. Cover and refrigerate at least 8 hours.
4. For the dough: In a medium bowl, whisk together both flours, the baking soda, salt, cinnamon and cloves until well blended. Set aside until needed.
5. In the bowl of a standing mixer fitted with a paddle attachment, cream together the butter and brown sugar on medium high until light and fluffy. Scrape the bowl.
6. On medium speed, add egg yolks one at a time, fully incorporating the first before adding the second.
7. Add the orange zest, honey, vanilla and orange juice until well blended, scraping the bowl once or twice to make sure everything is fully incorporated.
8. On low, add the dry ingredients in 3 increments, scraping once or twice until blended. Do not over mix. The dough will be quite sticky. That is exactly right.
9. Divide the dough in half, flatten into rectangles and wrap tightly in plastic wrap. Refrigerate several hours or overnight. Dough can be frozen, tightly wrapped, up to 2 months. Defrost overnight in the refrigerator.
10. To shape: Remove the dough from the fridge. Lightly flour a piece of parchment paper, top with one of the pieces of dough and lightly flour the top.
11. Roll, using more flour if the dough sticks to the pin or the parchment, and roll to a 1/8” thick 9” x 6” rectangle. Trim up the edges neatly and save the scraps.
12. Cut the dough into three 3” lengths (3” x 6”), transfer to a sheet pan and refrigerate while you roll the other piece of dough.
13. Do the same with the other piece of dough but work in the trim/scraps from the first piece and roll this one to 12” x 6”, trimming up to form a nice neat rectangle. Discard the scraps.
14. Cut this dough into four 3” lengths (3” x 6”). Transfer to the sheet pan with the other piece of dough and refrigerate 30 minutes. You should have 7 rectangles total. Chill for 30 minutes.
15. Beat the egg for an egg wash.
16. Place the filling in a piping bag fitted with a ½” plain round tip (alternatively, a Ziploc bag without tip will work too; you’ll likely have to use your fingers to scoot the sticky filling into place, but it’s not big deal. That’s why we have paper towels.)
17. Remove one dough sheet from the fridge. Place a piece of parchment paper on top, flip the dough and peel off what was the bottom parchment.
18. Lightly egg wash one long side of each 3”x6” strip for the seal.
19. Pipe a row of filling down the center of each strip.
20. With an offset spatula, ease up the long, un-egg washed side of the dough and gently fold it up and over the filling, continuing to roll the dough to completely encase the filling in a nice little log (if you have too much filling, carefully remove as much is needed for the dough edges to slightly overlap. If the dough becomes too soft to work with, chill for 30 minutes and resume. This is more likely to happen with the latter rectangles.)
21. Turn the log so the seam is on the bottom and gently pat to seal and slightly flatten the log.
22. Transfer the finished log (two hands!) to a small parchment lined sheet pan. Continue in the same manner with the remaining dough strips/filling.
23. Freeze the dough logs for 30 minutes while you preheat the oven to 325°F.
24. To bake: Space the logs evenly on a parchment lined sheet pan, 1” apart and brush with the egg wash.
25. Sprinkle with turbinado or coarse grain sugar and bake 15 minutes or until the bars are puffed and lightly browned. They will be soft but ever so slightly firm to the touch and will be lightly golden brown on the bottom. Careful, these are delicate things.
26. When completely cooled, transfer to a cutting board (two hands!), and cut each log into six pieces with a serrated knife. Careful, they are rather delicate.
27. Cookies will keep for several days, tightly wrapped.
28. Do ahead: the filling can be made then frozen up to 2 months, tightly wrapped. Same with the dough. Defrost both in the refrigerator overnight. Formed cookie logs can be frozen, tightly wrapped, for 1 month. Bake directly from the freezer adding a few minutes to the baking time.