tropical breezes … Coconut Pound Cake

Why does coconut signify springtime? Is it all the lamb cakes that pop up at Easter time, thickly frosted and covered in a coat of shredded coconut? Do coconuts represent warm tropical climates just when our brains crave some sign, no matter how little, of sun and warmth and a new season? I’m not really sure but I woke up the other day with a craving for coconut pound cake. Go figure.

I’ve never even made a coconut pound cake, not that I can recall, but something about it was strongly appealing. I knew exactly what I wanted: a moist, buttery loaf cake with subtle coconut flavor and a thick, white glaze studded with grated coconut. I looked at a lot of recipes and none sounded quite right so I quickly cobbled together my own. In my haste, I made a lot of bad cakes, many with sunken middles that looked vaguely pornographic. They were not pretty. Cake after cake went into the trash before I could really focus on the issue. Leavening. Stupidly, I was adding baking powder rather than baking soda to my recipe. Rookie mistake.

Once I got the leavening straightened out, it was smooth sailing. A fine crumb, a nice buttery flavor with hints of the tropics. I started with a classic sour cream pound cake recipe and used coconut extract throughout – in the cake, in the soaking syrup and in the icing – as well as coconut milk to bring out that flavor. You’re probably going to curse me for making you open a can of coconut milk for just 6 Tablespoons but I like the subtle reinforcement it brings to the party. Sure you could substitute whole milk but instead, why not buy the mini cans of the Chaokoh brand at the Asian market, which makes things a lot easier. And here are some ideas for using up leftover coconut milk. You’re welcome.

STRESS THERAPY BAKING FACTOR: LIKE A WARM TROPICAL BREEZE. Is there anything homier and simply enjoyable than a pound cake? Never fails to please, this one and it keeps beautifully. As much coconut as I’ve worked into this cake – extract, milk, shredded – it doesn’t overpower or taste like suntan lotion. Who wants a cake that tastes like Banana Boat tanning oil?

Another good coconut recipe: Coconut Layer Cake
Seven years ago: Khachpuri (cheesy Georgian bread)
Six years ago: Kolacky (Polish butter cookies)
Five years ago: Sticky Bun Bread
Four years ago: Easter Roll Call
Three years ago: Yeast Braided Coffeecake, Escargot Roasted Mushrooms
Two years ago: Guinness Crème Anglaise
Last year: Flourless Chocolate Cookies

COCONUT POUND CAKE
Makes one standard loaf
For the cake:
12 Tablespoons unsalted butter, room temperature (6 ounces, 1 ½ sticks)
1 ¼ cups sugar
3 large eggs, room temperature
½ teaspoon pure coconut extract
2 teaspoons dark rum (or vanilla extract)
1 ½ cups unbleached all-purpose flour
¼ teaspoon baking soda
½ teaspoon kosher salt
½ cup sour cream (4 ounces)
½ cup sweetened flaked coconut

for the coconut syrup:
¼ cup water
¼ cup unsweetened coconut milk (or more water)
½ cup sugar
½ teaspoon pure coconut extract
1 teaspoon dark rum (or vanilla extract)

for the coconut icing:
1 ¼ cups powdered sugar
2 Tablespoons unsweetened coconut milk (or whole milk or water)
½ teaspoon pure coconut extract
½ teaspoon dark rum (or vanilla extract)
pinch of kosher salt
¼ cup sweetened flaked coconut

1. Preheat the oven to 350°F. Line a loaf pan with a piece of parchment paper.
2. For the cake: In a medium bowl or on a piece of parchment, sift together the flour, baking soda and salt; set aside until needed.
3. In the bowl of a standing mixer fitted with the paddle attachment cream the butter and sugar on medium-high until very light, fluffy and nearly white, about 4-5 minutes. Do not cut this short; proper creaming is essential to a good pound cake.
4. On medium, add the eggs one at a time, blending each one fully before adding the next.
5. Add the coconut extract and rum, mixing until blended.
6. On low, add the dry ingredients in thirds, alternating with the sour cream until just blended.
7. Add the coconut flakes and mix until blended.
8. Pour the batter into the prepared loaf pan and evenly smooth the top.
9. Bake for 60-65 minutes or until firm to the touch, golden brown and a toothpick inserted off center comes out clean with moist crumbs.
10. For the syrup: combine the water, coconut milk and sugar in a small saucepan and bring to a boil over high heat.
11. Cook until the sugar is dissolved, stirring occasionally, for 2-3 minutes.
12. Remove the pan from the heat and add the coconut extract and rum.
13. Soak the cake: Right out of the oven, run a knife along the sides of the cake pan without the parchment paper to loosen the cake.
14. Pour 2/3 of the syrup on the top of the hot cake and let sit to soak. Set the excess syrup aside until needed.
15. Cool completely on a wire rack.
16. Turn the cake out onto a serving platter and pull back the parchment paper. Brush the remaining syrup all over the cake top and sides.
17. Let sit for at least one hour to set.
18. For the icing: in a medium bowl, whisk together the powdered sugar, coconut milk, coconut extract, rum and salt until smooth.
19. Spread the icing thickly on top of the cake and top with the shredded coconut. Let sit until the icing sets.
20. Serve or store in an airtight container. Keeps well for several days if tightly wrapped.

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