As a culinary consultant, I’ve picked up some really nifty tricks over the years. This is one of my favorites. While working on some dips for a Middle Eastern food company, I was asked to make a yogurt based spread with grilled eggplant, sort of a dairy based baba ghanoush. The provided “recipe” was a sheet of paper with an ingredient list typical of baba ghanoush: eggplant, tahini (sesame paste), garlic, lemon, olive oil. No measurements, no notes, no direction of any kind. That was part of my assignment: figure out the recipe and do it fast as the concepts were going to be consumer tested the next day. This is not entirely unusual in my line of work, which is why having a broad range of knowledge and techniques is incredibly helpful. And what I don’t know, google helps fill in the cracks.
Forging ahead, I placed a few fat eggplants directly on the gas stovetop burners and fired them up to high, much like you would roast peppers. I let them go for a while, turning occasionally, making sure the skin was well blistered on all sides. I thought they looked good but one of the company executives came into the kitchen and said “oh no, much much longer. You want to really char the outsides well to get that smoky taste.” OK, back on the burner they went.
The second time, I really charred them. Still not enough, according to her. Back on the burner. The outer skin blistered and popped and downright burned. The eggplant sputtered and spit and generally made a mess but I kept going. When the poor things were well charred and soft throughout, they were unrecognizable. I really hoped I hadn’t gone too far. The executive looked at me with a big smile and said “Ready!” Um, ok.
She next told me to scrap off all the burnt skin and discard as many seeds as I could, “too bitter.” The soft, smoky flesh was then easily mashed with a fork. It was incredible. My stovetop was a disaster; bits of charred skin and eggplant ooze were everywhere but it was worth it. The smokiness this extreme cooking imparts is unparallel.
I’d never cooked eggplant like this but once I did, I’ve never done it any other way. I often do this in my apartment, right on my stovetop burners but if I have a grill going outside, I’ll throw a few over indirect heat and let them go. The one thing to know, however, is that this takes a long time with a moderate amount of attention. Nearly an hour of turning every few minutes to make sure all sides and ends are evenly cooked. They are ready when the entire eggplant is very soft throughout, nearly collapsed. It should be sputtering and shooting steam. It should be blackened and charred and blistered in the most extreme way. Do not be afraid. You will not incinerate the thing due to the interior moisture content but just the same, do not walk away. Do other things in the kitchen certainly, but keep an eye on that sucker.
If, by chance, you happen to pull them too soon and they’re still a touch firm when cut open, put the whole eggplant on a foil lined sheet pan, cover tightly with foil and bake in a 350°F oven for 30-45 minutes until tender throughout. See. There are always options. But you really do have to do that charcoal blast first or the wonderful smokiness won’t be there. The oven simply won’t deliver. Once you have that smoky, silky mixture, it’s just a matter of blending it up with some garlic, tahini, lemon juice, a little cumin, some olive oil. And if you feel so inclined, some homemade pita chips. Then sit back and enjoy.
STRESS THERAPY BAKING FACTOR: BURN BABY! It’s really REALLY fun to burn the hell out of something on purpose. This is that thing. If you don’t do it, it won’t taste right. The whole method of doing this directly on the burner just seems so wrong but is pretty cool. If you don’t have a gas burner, a grill works. If you have neither of those things use your broiler but watch it carefully. Serve this as part of big Levantine meze lunch with hummus, tabbouleh, sliced vegetables, olives; maybe a hunk of feta. Throw in pita chips and some cold wine or beer and you are set.
Seven years ago: Chino Farms Strawberries
Six years ago: Rosemary Foccacia
Five years ago: Whole Wheat Chocolate Chip Cookies
Four years ago: Banana Fudge Layer Cake
Three years ago: Chocolate Bourbon Lard Cake
Two years ago: Guinness Crème Anglaise
Last year: Parmesan Pea Dip
SMOKY BABA GHANOUSH
Serves 4-8 as an appetizer
2 globe eggplants (totaling 2 pounds)
2 garlic cloves, finely chopped
2 Tablespoons extra virgin olive oil
3 Tablespoons tahini (sesame paste)
½ teaspoon ground cumin
2 Tablespoons fresh lemon juice
kosher salt and cayenne pepper to taste
for garnish: olive oil, paprika, chopped fresh parsley
- Place the eggplants directly on a gas burner, hot grill or under the broiler and roast evenly on all sides, until well charred and blackened all over. Really get it dark, the better the char, the better the smoky flavor. It may get messy; stick with it. The eggplants are ready when the skin is very blackened and blistered and the flesh is very soft, collapsed and very tender throughout.
- With the back of a paring knife (the dull side), scrape off all the blackened skin. Discard.
- Cut the eggplants in half. If not quite tender throughout, place on a foil lined sheet pan and cover tightly with another piece of foil. Cook in a 350°F oven until tender, 30-60 minutes. Uncover and let sit until cool enough to handle.
- Scoop out any discard as many seeds as possible without discarding a lot of flesh.
- Combine the eggplant flesh with the garlic, olive oil, tahini, garlic, cumin, lemon juice, and a pinch each of salt and cayenne. If you prefer a chunkier dip, use a fork. For a smoother dip, pulse in a food processor.
- Allow the baba ghanoush to cool to room temperature, then season to taste with additional lemon juice, salt, and cayenne if needed.
- Before serving, drizzle with a little olive oil. Sprinkle with paprika and fresh chopped parsley if desired.
- Serve with pita bread, crackers, sliced baguette, olives, carrots, celery, or cucumber slices.
STRESSCAKE 
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