the very best of summertime … Homestyle Creamed Corn

If there’s one thing I love about the Midwest, it is sweet corn. Holy hell. I never experienced this growing up in Arizona. Fresh picked, it is crazy good and I buy several ears multiple times a week from the farmers markets during August and September. Can’t stop, won’t stop. I’ve been known to skid off the road, doing a messy gravel filled u-turn rather than pass a roadside stand deep in farm country. My new favorite way to cook an ear or two at a time is with this microwave method – perfectly steamed every time with little fuss and muss. A good slather of butter, a bit of salt then watch out. During these late summer days, I’ve been known to eat a few for dinner with maybe some watermelon because that’s really good right now too. Heavenly.

Earlier this summer I spent a week working in Houston and my colleague and I decided to check out a place several friends had recommended – Killen’s BBQ. I had a hankering for some brisket so off we went. We loaded up our plates – pulled pork, beef ribs, smoked turkey, pork belly, hot links and of course, that brisket. To no one’s surprise, the sides pulled my attention. They always do. I really love BBQ joint side dishes, dare I say, more than the featured meats. Killen’s side dish game was strong and I held up the line while I asked about each and every one. There were pinto beans, baked beans, potato salad, cole slaw, green beans, mac & cheese, creamed corn and if I remembering correctly, a broccoli casserole. Choosing only two was incredibly difficult and they were all very good but that creamed corn. Holy hell that creamed corn blew my mind.

Back at the hotel, I couldn’t even remember the last time I’d had creamed corn. My past exposures have been pretty much limited to the canned variety and I never particularly cared for it. I think I bought a can once to try a cornbread recipe and I hated that too. As I sat in my bed watching crap cable TV, I grabbed my laptop and started googling. Sweet corn season was coming I wanted that creamed corn in my life.

It wasn’t that hard to find. The chef, Ronnie Killen, had shared the recipe with the Houston Chronicle a few years ago. In fact, I found the Houston press was full of tips from him on all sorts of things including how to make the best brisket. I liked this guy, spreading the love like that. A few weeks ago, when sweet corn started showing up at my farmers market, I made that recipe. I shouldn’t have been surprised that it wasn’t what I had at the restaurant. It was good but it wasn’t right. So over the next few weeks, I worked on it. And worked on it.

I shucked ears and cut the kernels from cobs. I scraped cobs and simmered them in milk. I sautéed and stirred and blended. I cooked on the stove and I baked in the oven. I ate a lot of corn. In the end, I determined the recipe I found was a little overcomplicated so I simplified it, cooked it in one pot entirely on the stove to get that right thick, creamy texture. When done right, it’s like a bowl of corn pudding; sweet and creamy and silky. And it’s damn good.

Watching and reading about the devastating hurricane that hit Houston last week, I couldn’t help but think of Kileen’s and wonder if they were ok. Turns out not only were they ok, they fired up the pits right away and cooked for first responders and those displaced by Harvey. Cooks tend to do that and it warmed my heart to learn the Kileen’s did it too. I really hope they made that creamed corn. A warm bowl with some brisket would be an extremely comforting thing in the face of exhaustion, loss and destruction. Food heals.

STRESS THERAPY BAKING FACTOR: SPOONFUL OF SUMMERTIME. Here’s what I’m going to say about this one. It really hinges on how good your corn is, no question. Now, that being said and with full acknowledgment that I haven’t tried it, I have a feeling it would still be fairly good made with frozen corn. Egad, I know but sometimes you just want something like this in the middle of February. There are those out there who say you should suck it up and wait but I have a sneaking feeling, even frozen corn would fill that craving, knowing full well that of course it would be better in August/September. Whatever.

Other corn recipes: Mexican Corn Salad, Corn Pudding, Summer Corn & Tomato Salad, Sweet Corn Soup, Roasted Ratatouille with Sweet Corn Polenta, Baked Corn Pudding, and maybe this one Sweet Corn Cookies with Salt & Pepper Buttercream
Eight years ago: Confessions of a Cookbook Addict
Seven years ago: Peach Pandowdy
Six years ago: Tomato Confit
Five years ago: Bastille Day Lunch – Figgy BBQ Sauce
Four years ago: Yunnan Pineapple & Tomato Salad
Three years ago: Fresh Mint Limeade
Two years ago: Melon Feta & Prosciutto Salad
Last year: Borlotti Beans with Italian Sausages and Fennel-Pepper Relish

HOMESTYLE CREAMED CORN
serves 4 as a side dish but can be easily doubled
The original recipe poured the finished mixture into a casserole dish, sprinkled parmesan on top and baked or broiled until brown and bubbly. I don’t remember that from the restaurant but a cheesy crust is always welcome. I don’t much fancy turning on the oven at that point but if you have the urge, feel free.

4 ears fresh sweet corn (about 6 cups kernels)
4 Tablespoons unsalted butter
1 cup whole milk
2 Tablespoons sugar (can use more or less, depending on corn sweetness)
¾ cup + ¼ cup heavy cream, divided
¾ teaspoon kosher salt
¼ teaspoon white pepper
1/8 teaspoon cayenne pepper
1 ½ teaspoons cornstarch

1. Shuck then cut the corn kernels from the cobs.
2. Scrape the sides of the cobs into the pot, running a spoon down the length of the cob to scrape the pulp, or “milk,” into the pot. Depending on the freshness of your corn and how close to the cob you’ve cut the kernels, the amount of “milk” may vary. Discard cobs.
3. Bring the milk, butter and sugar to a boil then reduce to a low simmer and add the kernels.
4. Cover and simmer until tender, 30 minutes. Give the mixture a stir occasionally to make sure the bottom isn’t scorching.
5. Remove the pot from the heat and use an immersion blender to break up some of the corn kernels. You should have a mix of about 1/3 whole-ish kernels, 1/3 puréed corn. Breaking up the kernels this way will help breakdown and tenderize some of the starches in the skins. (If you don’t have an immersion blender, use a standard blender and pulse a few times to roughly puree then add back to the pot. Note: take care pureeing hot liquids in a blender; remove the center plug from the lid and cover with a towel to allow steam to escape.)
6. Add the ¾ cup cream, salt, cayenne and white pepper.
7. Bring back to a low simmer and cook until creamy and thickened, about another 45 minutes. Stir frequently to prevent scorching.
8. In a small bowl, whisk together the cornstarch and ¼ cup cream; stir into the pot.
9. Simmer, uncovered, for 10 more minutes until thickened and creamy.
10. Taste for seasoning and adjust if desired.
11. Serve hot. Can be made up to 3 days ahead and refrigerated. It’s best reheated on the stove and may need a bit more milk or cream during reheating to prevent scorching. Due to the high amount of dairy, this doesn’t freeze particularly well.