all the best things … Pickle Brined Fried Chicken Sandwiches

Somewhere a while back I read that we should be using pickle brine to marinate chicken. What?!? I’ve been brining meats like chicken, turkey and pork for years with a simple solution of water, salt, sugar and spices. Which, with the addition of dill and garlic, is essentially pickle juice. It’s so simple and so obvious, that’s probably why I didn’t think of it. How many times have we tossed that jar of pickle juice in our lifetimes? The smart ones among us might throw in some carrots, or more cucumber spears or jalapenos but for most of us? Down the drain and into the recycle bin. Well, let me tell you, there’s a better use for that juice (well, besides picklebacks but that’s another story.)

After learning about this nifty trick, I made countless dinners of really tasty chicken skewers but this summer I went on a bit of bender and made fried chicken sandwiches. Specifically, pickle brined fried chicken sandwiches. They were outstanding – the meat was flavorful, juicy and better than any version I’d made previously but my breading needed some work.

So I cobbled together a breading technique from various sources and my own ingenuity. I used a few ideas from Serious Eats, a few nuggets of information from Tasting Table and took inspiration from Wendy’s, yes that Wendy’s, home of my favorite spicy chicken sandwich. I love that thing. I landed on a buttermilk soak and a flour dredge, both fairly standard for this kind of thing. But it’s that soak in the pickle juice that makes this pretty magical.

First off, and I’m probably going to get a lot of shit for this, but I like chicken breasts over thighs. I just do and I don’t even feel bad about it. I am a white meat girl no matter how many articles I read proclaiming that chefs universally prefer chicken thighs. I like what I like. So, food publications be damned, I take those chicken breasts, trim and pound them to an even thickness so they cook evenly. Then into a Ziploc for a little bath in the pickle brine. If you have a jar of nearly empty pickles, you’re set but if not, I included a recipe for a quick brine at the bottom. An hour soak will do.

The chicken is then patted dry and tossed about in a spiced flour mixture, which is flavorful but not overly spicy despite a good shot of cayenne powder. Fried until crispy and crunchy, then served on a soft roll with lettuce, tomato, red onion, more pickles and a dill mayo, it’s delicious.

A word about roll selection. I prefer a soft, hamburger bun type of roll, particularly a potato roll, like Martin’s. This might be because most commercial chicken sandwiches are served on soft, squishy rolls rather than an artisan type bun so it’s what I’ve grown to like. For a reshoot, I picked up a single hamburger bun from the Whole Foods bakery, and while perfectly fine, it wasn’t right. It was gigantic, which threw everything off and the crumb was too firm but boy, it sure did photograph pretty. The thing about a soft squishy roll is that it compresses everything nicely. The sauce stays somewhat in place due to the spongy nature of the roll and everything is contained in the best way. Ultimately it’s your call, I’m just telling you what to do.

Update: since I posted this, I’ve been getting some great feedback on wonderful ideas for other brines, particularly picked jalapeño juice and the brine leftover from feta that you purchase at a good deli. Great ideas! Keep ’em coming!

STRESS THERAPY BAKING FACTOR: FRIED CHICKEN CURES EVERYTHING. Really. I do believe a good piece of fried chicken will cheer you up. Works for me and these chicken sandwiches fit the bill. The recipe may seem a bit lengthy and futzy but it’s all fairly easy. There’s a little time involved with the brining and some planning ahead to make said brine if needed but overall, anyone can pull this off. And who doesn’t like a hot, juicy, flavorful fried chicken sandwich?

Eight years ago: Squash & Onion Tart
Seven years ago: Sauteed Beet Greens
Six years ago: Concord Grape Pie & Purple Cow Pie Shakes
Five years ago: Kale & Squash Salad
Four years ago: Muhammara – the best sauce you’ve never heard of
Three years ago: Seeded Crackers
Two years ago: Simple Pear Tart
Last year: Finnish Pulla (Finnish Cardamom Braid)

PICKLE BRINED FRIED CHICKEN SANDWICHES
Makes 4 sandwiches
While I prefer chicken breasts to thighs for sandwiches, you can certainly use the later if you prefer. Breasts must be pounded to an even thickness so they cook evenly. The only issue is chicken breasts can be enormous these days. Trim out and remove the tenders first and save for another purpose. If you like, trim the breast down to sandwich size, saving the extra pieces for dishes like stir fries and quick pastas. While they have a great flavor, these sandwiches aren’t overly spicy. If you’d like them hotter, dust the chicken breasts with a little ground cayenne after patting dry from the pickle brine and give them a good shot of hot sauce before putting on the top buns.

to brine:
¾ cup pickle brine* (see note below – remember to save a little bit for the sauce)
4 boneless, skinless chicken breasts, tenders removed

to the breading:
¾ cup buttermilk

1 ½ cup unbleached all-purpose flour
2 ¼ teaspoons baking powder
½ teaspoon kosher salt
2 teaspoons ground cayenne
1 ½ teaspoon ground black pepper
½ teaspoon sweet paprika

vegetable oil for frying

for the sauce:
¼ cup mayonnaise
¼ teaspoon ground black pepper
½ teaspoon pickle brine
1 teaspoon fresh dill, minced

to assemble:
4 soft hamburger buns or potato rolls
lettuce leaves
sliced tomato
sliced red onion
pickle slices (or zucchini pickles are nice too)

1. Marinate the chicken: Place the chicken between two pieces of plastic wrap and pound to an even thickness with a meat mallet. The chicken needs to be of an even thickness to cook evenly. If overly large, trim to sandwich size.
2. Add the pickle brine to a large Ziploc bag, add the chicken and press out as much air as possible.
3. Refrigerate for about an hour. The longer you marinate, the stronger the pickle flavor so think about that when determining how long you brine. I found 1 hour to be about right, 2 hours produced a more pronounced flavor. Still good but definitely more pickley.
4. For the sauce: in a small bowl, whisk together the sauce ingredients and refrigerate until needed. Can make up to 2 days in advance.
5. When ready to fry: Heat oil in a wok, deep cast iron skillet, or Dutch oven to 375°F using a frying or instant-read thermometer.
6. Pour the buttermilk into a shallow bowl, like a pie tin.
7. In a second shallow bowl or pie tin, combine the flour, baking powder, salt, cayenne, black pepper and paprika.
8. Remove the chicken from pickle brine and pat dry with paper towels. Discard the pickle juice.
9. Place the chicken in the flour mixture, turning to coat. Pat or shake off the excess flour.
10. Place the chicken in the bowl with the buttermilk, turning to coat. Let excess drip off.
11. Place the chicken back in the flour mixture, turning to coat making sure all nooks and crannies are coated, lifting the flour on top of it and pressing it down firmly until a thick, shaggy layer of flour has stuck to the chicken.
12. Transfer to a plate and repeat with remaining chicken pieces.
13. Carefully lower chicken pieces into the hot oil; the temperature will drop. Adjust heat to maintain a temperature of between 300°F and 350°F (325°F is ideal).
14. Cook without moving until well browned on first side, about 3-4 minutes.
15. Flip chicken carefully using tongs and a slotted spatula and cook until second side is browned and chicken is fully cooked, 3-4 minutes longer.
16. Transfer to a paper towel–lined plate.
17. Place bottom buns on a work surface and top with a slice of lettuce, a few tomato slices and a few onion slices.
18. Spread 1 Tablespoon of the sauce on the top half of each bun.
19. Top the bottom buns with a piece of the fried chicken, a few pickles and top with the sauced buns. Serve immediately.

*Pickle brine
If you have a jar of pickles with just a few left, then you’re all set with the brine you need (I’m rather partial to Claussen garlic dills myself.) If not, you’ll have to make a quick brine so plan ahead – it’s better if it sits in the fridge overnight but even an hour is better than nothing. A basic brine of vinegar, salt and sugar would probably suffice in a pinch but to be pickle brine, it has to have dill (either fresh or seed) and garlic at the very least. An addition of mustard seeds would be nice. A pinch or two of chile flakes wouldn’t hurt. And while you’re at it, make a double batch and throw some vegetables in the jar with the leftover brine – cucumbers, sure, but maybe carrots, asparagus or blanched brussels sprouts. Quick refrigerator pickles in no time.

2 ¼ teaspoons kosher salt
1 ½ teaspoons sugar
6 Tablespoons distilled white vinegar
½ cup water

optional flavorings:
2 large garlic cloves, peeled and roughly chopped
3 fresh dill sprigs or ¼ teaspoon dill seeds
¼ teaspoon mustard seeds
pinch or two of dried chile flakes

1. In a small saucepan, combine the vinegar, salt, and sugar.
2. Bring to a boil and stir until completely dissolved.
3. Add the water and any flavorings (garlic, dill, mustard seed).
4. Pour in a heat proof jar and refrigerate overnight, or for at least one hour.