full bold flavors … Gjelina Style Roasted Beets with Spiced Lentils

A few weeks ago, I saw an Instagram post by my friend Camas Davis, proprietor of the Portland Meat Collective. It was a shot of quartered beets with the greens attached and she mentioned she was cooking from the Gjelina cookbook. I’d always cooked the two separately; this idea of cooking them together intrigued me. And I had that book somewhere. More importantly, I had beets with the greens still attached in the refrigerator and no real plan for them. The timing was perfect so I rounded up my copy of Gjelina: Cooking from Venice, California by Chef Travis Lett and found the recipe. It seemed simple enough, small beets are roasted with the tops until the bulbs are tender and the greens are crispy. Simple enough until I made it. There was this one thing, this one annoying little direction, that had me cursing.

The beets are halved or quartered carefully to leave the greens attached and roasted simply in olive oil, salt and pepper. But in the recipe, in an innocuous little line, there’s this step that makes me want to slap someone. The beets aren’t peeled first, maybe because it can be a little tricky to navigate with the greens still attached? Or maybe those skins keep the beets moist or add flavor? I really have no idea. Instead you’re directed to roast the beets and then rub the skins off with a kitchen towel. Maybe a few sous chefs with asbestos fingers and enthusiastic attitudes do this with no problems and a firm “Oui, Chef!” in Lett’s kitchen, but this gal in her own home? Um, no way. I wished I had read this line a little closer from the start.

When the time came, I found it nearly impossible to handle the hot beets long enough to rub the damn skins off. Plus rubbing with a kitchen towel is not only messy, it rubs the seasoning off too. I attempted a few, accidently detached a few greens, burned a finger or three then gave up. The recipe might as well have said “Say a few prayers and peel the skins off the blazing hot orbs with green whips of fire. Good luck!” It’s one of those steps that doesn’t translate well from restaurant to home kitchen. That faint grumbling cursing noise you may have heard a few nights ago? That was definitely me. The second time around, I carefully peeled the whole beets first, then cut them into halves or quarters. It’s a simple change that makes a world of difference in preserving both your fingertips and your sanity.

 

With the beets roasted, I needed to fill out the plate. Out of my bottomless pantry came a bag of green lentils that I spiced up simply with garlic, onions, cinnamon and cumin. In my fridge I had some of the deliciously spicy Yemen Schug and Garlic Buttermilk Sauce from past posts. A bit of the schug in the lentils as well as a drizzle or two of the garlic sauce and I was ready to go. I took my plate into the family room for some World Series watching.

The first bite work me right up. Whoa! This combination is crazy delicious. The beets are tender and sweet, the greens are earthy and crispy. The lentils were hearty and beautifully spiced with the schug adding a bright spicy pungency and the garlic sauce added just the right punch to bring it all together. It was so good, I had seconds and happily ate the leftovers for breakfast the next day and I don’t generally like leftovers. Make this while the beets at the farmers markets still have the greens attached. Make it a few times. I have. For my latest batch, I used beets from a friends garden plot – beautiful little striped chioggia and yellow baby beets. They roasted up paler and less vibrant than I would have liked, but were so sweet and delicious, I managed even if my photos were a bit subdued.

Part of the success of this recipe is having those two sauces on hand – the schug and the garlic buttermilk sauce. They come together quickly, will last in the fridge for a while and are great on so many things. But even if you don’t make the extra sauces or the lentils, try this roasting technique for the beets, especially if you can find them with the greens. It’s really quite good.

STRESS THERAPY BAKING FACTOR: HALLELUJAH! Holy moly, this is good. If/when I can find beets with greens still attached, this is my new favorite cooking method. Combined with the spiced lentils and those two sauces, it’s a spectacular combination. I have made it no less than four times in three weeks, which is crazy. I never do that. But, I’m overloaded with beets lately so here we find ourselves.

Other beet recipes: Roasted Beets w/Whipped Goat Cheese,  Sautéed Beet Greens
Eight years ago: Chicken Salad Full of Good Things
Seven years ago: Blue Cheese Dressing with a Wedge Salad
Six years ago: Maple Buttermilk Spoonbread with Glazed Pears
Five years ago: Kale & Squash Salad
Four years ago: Apple Cider Compote and an Orchard Party
Three years ago: Roasted Delicata Squash – 4 Ways
Two years ago: Shaved Mushroom and Fennel Salad
Last year: Kale Salad with Cripsy Salami & Chickpeas

GJELINA ROASTED BEETS WITH SPICED LENTILS
Serves 4
The schug and garlic buttermilk sauce add so much to this dish but don’t let not having them stop you. Even just the roasted beets and lentils would make a nice meal. When cutting the beets into manageable pieces, keep in mind the greens will roast much faster than the root – large chunks will never get tender before the greens incinerate. Cut accordingly.

for the spiced lentils:
1 Tablespoon olive oil
½ small onion, diced
1 garlic clove, peeled and finely diced
½ teaspoon ground cumin
¼ teaspoon ground cinnamon
2 cups chicken or vegetable stock
kosher salt
ground black pepper
½ cup green lentils (lentils du puy)
2 teaspoons Yemen schug (or more)

for the roasted beets:
2 pounds small beets with greens attached
2 Tablespoons olive oil
kosher salt
ground black pepper

Garlic Buttermilk Sauce
Yemen Schug

1. for the lentils: Place a large saucepan over medium heat and add oil.
2. When hot, add the onions and sauté until softened, 5-10 minutes.
3. Add the garlic and sauté until fragrant, about 1 minute.
4. Add the water, cinnamon, cumin, a good pinch of each salt and pepper and the lentils.
5. Bring to a boil then reduce the heat to low and simmer, covered, until lentils are soft but still have a little bite.
6. Remove the lid, turn up the heat to high and boil for 5 minutes until tender and have absorbed most of the water.
7. Taste and add more salt if you like.
8. Stir in 2 teaspoons of the schug (more/less to taste).
9. for the beets: preheat the oven to 400°F and wash the beets and greens well. Shake well to dry.
10. With a vegetable peeler, carefully peel the beets, leaving the greens intact.
11. Cut the beets in half (quarters if larger), trying your best to keep the long green stems attached to each piece.
12. Place on a sheet pan and drizzle about 2 Tablespoons oil over the beets (and greens), sprinkle with a good pinch each of salt and pepper and toss about to fully coat.
13. Add water to pan and roast in the oven for 30 minutes until beets are tender and the greens are slightly crispy. Check at the 20 minute mark – If the greens cook too quickly or look like they’re about to burn, add a bit more water to the pan. Depending on the size of your beets, more time may be needed until tender.
14. Serve warm or room temperature with the lentils and drizzled with garlic buttermilk sauce. Serve additional schug on the side for those who’d like a bit more heat.