never would’ve guessed … Crispy Squash Sandwich

I’ve been on a fall recipe kick lately – squash, pumpkin, apples, beets. I made the switch so fast from summer tomatoes and corn, it caught me by surprise. When I recently found myself with some extra butternut squash and no inkling (nor freezer space) to make soup, I thought about a sandwich. Specifically, it was a sandwich I had last spring at Bad Hunter, a Chicago restaurant. Their menu is interesting – mostly vegetarian but with a bit of meat here and there for flavor, creative dishes that are quite beautiful and with spectacular desserts. One menu item really struck a chord with me: a crispy squash sandwich.

When my friends expressed an interest in ordering it, I protested. A sandwich? We tend to order for the table and share; splitting a sandwich five ways sounded like a lot of work if not impossible. Plus it was a squash sandwich. What even is that? My interest was definitely not piqued but I went with the group consensus and it was added to the ticket.

I don’t remember much about the rest of order; there were dumplings, some kind of posole dish but much to my surprise, that damn sandwich was my favorite of them all. What? The squash was roasted until tender, then panko breaded and fried until crispy. I don’t remember what else was on it but it was shockingly delicious. Shocking because when you read “squash sandwich” it doesn’t really muster up a lot of excitement but this had layers of texture and flavors that were delightful. We all loved it and I got a lot of good-natured ribbing for the rest of the meal. I also learned that with a little determination and a sharp knife, you can indeed split a sandwich five ways. Who knew?

So with that sandwich mind and an excess of squash, I put together my own version. The squash is dusted with a little ras-el-hanout spice mix and roasted in thick rounds until just barely tender, breaded in panko and pan fried until crispy and golden brown. The crispy squash is pretty great on it’s own but I wanted a sandwich so I split a ciabatta roll, smeared it with a little garlic aioli, a pile of peppery arugula and some sweet and sour caramelized balsamic onions. It’s a freaking great sandwich and the ideal addition to any fall meal.

A few tips on selecting butternut squash – look for ones with a long neck and a small bulb. The neck is primarily what you’ll be using here so also look for ones that are thick, i.e., sandwich size. Also, the easiest way to cut this type of squash is to peel it first.

STRESS THERAPY BAKING FACTOR: SURPRISE SURPRISE. This is one classy sandwich. Often, vegetarian options are afterthoughts, something thrown together to appease but not please the non-meat eaters. With a little thought, vegetarian meals can be just as creative and delicious as other meals. Just make food that tastes good. That’s what I like about Bad Hunter. The food is good and that it’s mostly vegetarian is a nice surprise. I ate a squash sandwich and thought about it for 6 months. How often does that happen? Rarely to never.

other squash recipes: Baked Squash Bread Pudding, Easy Squash Carrot Soup, Squash & Onion Tart + more below
other sandwich recipes: Chicken Shawarma Pocket Sandwich,
Pickle Brined Spicy Chicken Sandwiches
Eight years ago: Cider Donuts
Seven years ago: Blue Cheese Dressing with a Wedge Salad
Six years ago: Maple Buttermilk Spoonbread with Glazed Pears
Five years ago: Kale & Squash Salad
Four years ago: Maple Bourbon Carrots
Three years ago: Roasted Delicata Squash – 4 Ways
Two years ago: Maple Mustard Glazed Delicata, Brussels Sprouts & Shallots
Last year: Creamy Steel Cut Oats with Roasted Pumpkin and Pumpkinseed Crumble

CRISPY BUTTERNUT SQUASH SANDWICHES WITH BALSAMIC ONIONS
Serves 4
If you’d prefer a vegan version, swap out the eggs for coconut milk. You can use a pre-blended ras-el-hanout spice mix or there’s a recipe at the bottom if you’d like to make your own. 

for the balsamic onions:
1 large white onion, thinly sliced
2 Tablespoons olive oil
kosher salt
ground black pepper
1 Tablespoons balsamic vinegar

for the squash:
1 large butternut squash (with a long neck and small bulb)
1-2 teaspoons ras-el-hanout* (a Moroccan spice blend) – recipe below if needed
olive oil
good pinch each of kosher salt and ground black pepper

for the breading:
1 cup unbleached all-purpose flour
2 large eggs, beaten (or ¾ cup coconut milk)
1 cup panko breadcrumbs
vegetable oil for frying

for the garlic aioli:
½ cup mayonnaise
1 garlic clove, peeled and very finely minced
¼ teaspoon fresh lemon juice
½ teaspoon Dijon mustard
pinch of kosher salt

1 cup baby arugula
4 ciabatta rolla, brioche rolls or 8 thick slices of country bread

1. For the balsamic onions: heat a large sauté pan over medium heat, add the oil.
2. When the oil is hot and shimmering, add the onions and a good pinch each of salt and pepper, stirring to coat.
3. Stir, until just wilted, about 2-3 minutes.
4. Cover with a tight-fitting lid and continue to cook, stirring frequently, until onions are very soft and golden, about 20 minutes.
5. Stir in the balsamic vinegar, continue to cook until all liquid is absorbed. Let cool completely. Onions can be made up to 3 days ahead, refrigerated.
6. For the squash: Preheat the oven to 400°F and line a sheet pan with aluminum foil.
7. Peel the butternut squash and cut the neck into 1” thick rounds. (Note: The thick, solid neck works best for sandwiches but you can scoop out the bulb and use that as well, but note that it’s thinner and will roast faster. Or just use it for something else.)
8. Place the rounds in a large bowl and toss with the olive oil, and ras-el-hanout. The amount of spice will depend on how much squash you have; start with 1 teaspoon and add more if needed.
9. Spread the rounds on the prepared sheet pan and roast until just tender, about 30 minutes, flipping halfway
10. Let cool.
11. To fry: Prepare a dredging station: in 3 shallow dishes or pie tins place the following in each: flour, beaten eggs (or coconut milk), panko.
12. Dip a piece of squash in the flour, tapping off the excess. Be sure to coat the sides.
13. Dip the piece in the beaten eggs (or coconut milk), letting excess drip off. Again, coat the sides.
14. Do this one more time –  flour, then eggs.
15. Dip the piece in the panko, tossing gently to fully cover and making sure to coat the sides. Place on a clean plate. Continue with the remaining pieces.
16. Place a wire rack in a sheet pan for draining the fried squash.
17. Fill a deep cast iron skillet or straight sided sauté pan with about 1” of oil and heat to 350°F. Do not fill the pan beyond the halfway mark.
18. Gently slip a few pieces of panko coated squash into the hot oil (do not crowd the pan) and shallow fry until golden brown, about 3-4 minutes, turning halfway through.
19. Carefully remove with a slotted spoon and place on the wire rack to drain.
20. To assemble: on the bottom buns, place a pile of arugula, a fried squash piece (or two), and a spoonful of balsamic onions.
21. Spread the garlic aioli on the bun tops and place on top of the sandwich. Serve immediately.

 

ras-el-hanout*
make about 1 Tablespoon but can be very easily multiplied up.
This Moroccan spice blend is excellent with lamb and chicken, particularly lamb burgers or roast chicken or kebabs and is fantastic on roasted vegetables.

½ teaspoon ground cumin
½ teaspoon ground ginger
½ teaspoon kosher salt
¼ teaspoon black pepper
¼ teaspoon ground cinnamon
¼ teaspoon ground coriander
¼ teaspoon cayenne
¼ teaspoon ground allspice
1/8 teaspoon ground cloves
– Mix everything together and store any leftovers in an airtight container in a cool, dark, dry place.