four bite summer … Catalan Tomato Toast (pan con tomate)

Pan con tomate. Pa amb tomàquet. Or, simply put, tomato toast. Crusty bread, juicy tomato, maybe a hint of garlic, a drizzle of olive oil and a pinch of salt. That’s all there is to it. Summer in a few bites. When the tomatoes are bursting to the point of juicy ridiculousness and its too damn hot to think about doing much, this is what you make. When done properly, you’ll wonder why you eat anything else.

I first had this years ago, well into a trip to Spain. I’d seen it all over the Catalan region and beyond but never ordered it myself because … bread with tomato? Really? With so many other exciting options on endless tapas menus it was pushed off in favor of other things. Then I just saw too much of it at one particular restaurant and curiosity got the best of me. I could of kicked myself. The crusty bread soaked up the tomato juices, the oil added a richness, there was the slightest hint of garlic, and the salt brought it all together. Good lord it was good. I had wasted so much time. The Spaniards really know what they’re doing.

I happened to be in Spain during peak tomato season and though I was slow to start, I ate my fair share of pan con tomate to make up for lost time. I continued to make in once back home but only for those few weeks when the tomatoes are at their best. That is just starting to happen in my neck of the woods and with this ungodly heat, I am thankful for this gift. The key is, as always, ingredients. A deceptively simple recipe relies heavily on things that are very good on their own. Tomatoes. Bread. Olive oil. Salt. A simple process, not really a recipe at all, rather a few brief steps but made with the best ingredients.

First, some good bread is a necessity – really good, crusty bread from a real baker. I like sourdough though a good country loaf of some sort works well too; this is not the time for some sad grocery store specimen. Then, in the one cooking step of this simple recipe, you have to get it grilled/toasted. The rough craggy toasty surface bits are imperative to pulling this off. The best option is to grill the bread, a few minutes on each side, until lightly colored. A few charred bits are fine, great even, but don’t burn it. The next best option is to use a grill pan on the stove, a few minutes per side. You can broil, but watch it carefully. As a final option, you can use a toaster but it doesn’t always brown quite right or evenly. As a last resort, it’ll do. You want some texture; those nubby, coarse bits are necessary for the next part. And no, you cannot skip this step.

Now, this bit is optional but I recommend it: take a peeled clove of raw garlic and rub it on one side of that toasted bread. The crusty nubby toast bits act a bit like a grater, rubbing off just enough garlicky flavor. Careful – just a few swipes will do.

Next up: the tomatoes. It’s the star of the dish so get big, fat, meaty, juicy ripe ones. Traditionally, the Catalans use red tomatoes but really the only requirement is that they’re delicious so if you have a ton of yellow or multi-colored tomatoes, who am I to say that’s wrong? Cut the tomato in half through the middle – across the equator as they say – and rub that cut side on the bread. Again, the rough edges of the bread sort of grate the tomato down, leaving you with a handful of tomato skin and a light, juicy, pulpy film on the bread. Sometimes, depending on your tomato, you’ll get a pulpy film and sometimes, like the one photographed here, you’ll have a tomato so liquidy that it just sort of collapses into the bread, leaving more juice soaked bread than anything else. Let me tell you, both are good.

Finish with a drizzle of good olive oil, a pinch of flaky salt and dig in. That’s all there is to it. Sometimes you might see a slice or two of Serrano ham on top but that’s it – keep it very simple. Don’t pile on the toppings. It’s not a sandwich.

STRESS THERAPY BAKING FACTOR: PERFECTION. I’ve been a little silent around here, too busy cooking for work projects and too tired, uninspired – and hot! – to do much at home. This simple thing, this tomato toast, has kicked me out of my funk. It’s delicious, it’s easy and it makes me happy. It will probably do the same for you.

ten years ago: Tart Tips & Tart Dough, Sour Cherry Sorbet, Wild Blackberry Jam
nine years ago: Rhubarb Custard Pie, Cobbler & Cabining Annoyances, Strawberry Buttermilk Ice Cream, Big American Flag Cake, Sour Cherry Cobbler,
eight years ago: Whole Wheat Chocolate Chip Cookies, Banana Tarte Tatin, Strawberry Rhubarb Crumble Pie with Lard Crust, Strawberry Shortcake, Life in Southwest France
seven years ago: Pear Frangipane Tarts, Ricotta Cheesecake, Farro Tabbouleh, Strawberry Hibiscus Popsicles, Spanish Sunday Lunch & Patatas Aioli, Bastille Day Bomb Pops, Sour Cherry Slab Pie
six years ago: Chocolate Bourbon Lard Cake, Frybread for Navajo Tacos, Buttermilk Panna Cotta with Vanilla Cardamom Roasted Rhubarb, Mexican Chocolate Pudding Pops, Lime Angelfood Cake, Roasted Strawberry Sorbet, BBQ Baked Beans, Hush Puppies, Tin Roof Sundae, Watermelon Aqua Fresca, Spicy Pineapple Paletas
five years ago: Guinness Crème Anglaise
four years ago: Mango Lassi Freezer Pops, Eton Mess (Strawberries & Cream & Meringue), Onion Rye Berry Bread, Radish Butter, Slow Roasted Spiced Pineapple, Blender Gazpacho
three years ago: Smoky Baba Ghanoush, Pete’s Special – Teriyaki Chicken & Vegetable Rice Bowl, Summer Fruit Ice Pops, Apricot Date Bars, Vietnamese Flank Steak with Peanut Soba Noodles, Date Shake Popsicles, Radish Top Pesto with Sautéed Radishes, Julia’s Braised Cucumbers, Pina Colada Sherbet, Orange Julius (with Strawberry and Pineapple variations), Roasted Cherry Vanilla Frozen Yogurt, Blueberries & Cream Popsicles, Beef Bulgogi & Rice Cake Skewers, Thai Grilled Coconut Rice & Banana
two years ago: Cold Cucumber Buttermilk Soup, Cold Sesame Noodles, Cream Soda Sherbet, Michelada Style Clams, Grand Aioli, Salmon Rilettes
last year: Lemon Elderflower Quatre Quarts (French Pound Cake), The Perfect Light Crispy Waffle, Peruvian Roast Chicken with Spicy Green Sauce, Chicken Wing Friday … Sticky Northern Exposure Wings, Lemon Sour Cream Pie, Greek Salad Piadini Sandwiches

CATALAN TOMATO TOAST (PAN CON TOMATE )
Serve 4, or so
I cannot state this more emphatically; with so few ingredients get the best, most flavorful you can find. Make this when tomatoes are at their peak season and no other time

8 large slices country-style or sour dough bread, about ½” thick
4 garlic cloves, peeled (optional)
2 very ripe tomatoes, halved crosswise
extra-virgin olive oil
flaky sea salt

1. Grill/toast the bread to get some color and a craggy surface. There are a few options.
   • Grill: on a medium-hot grill, 2 minutes per side for a little color
   • Grill pan: get it screaming hot, about 2 minutes per side.
   • Broiler: 1-2 minutes per side.
   • Toaster: until lightly colored.
2. If desired, rub one side of each slice of bread lightly with the garlic.
3. Rub the same side of bread with the cut side of the tomato to coat with a light film of juice/pulp.
4. Drizzle with olive oil and top with a pinch of flaky salt. Serve immediately.

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