use what you have … Roasted Cabbage with Miso Vinaigrette

Cooking in the time of corona and self-isolation is getting interesting. Hopefully you have what you need or more importantly, need to get by. I hope you’re digging into the depths of your freezers for long forgotten treasures and your pantries, finding those lost bags of beans and jars of things you bought a while back for something. I am unusually well stocked and have been diligently working my way through all my stuff and am doing pretty well. I’m taking on long, involved cooking projects because I have the time – sourdough (who isn’t??), fresh pasta, kimchi, lasagna, bagels. Why not? Perhaps you’re like me and made some curious choices on your last grocery trip. Case in point: I am perplexed as to why there is not one, but two, whole heads of cabbage in my refrigerator right now. One red, one green. Why? That is 50% more cabbage than I purchased in the 2019 calendar year. I suspect my instincts took over while shopping; cabbage is a good keeper and at least one was certainly a St. Patrick’s Day inspired purchase but why two? Regardless, I have a lot of cabbage taking up too much space for one person and it needs to go. Time to get creative.

A year or so ago, I was working on a cookbook shoot and the author roasted a whole head of cabbage on the grill. It was shockingly delicious, particularly the crispy outer leaves, and I ate more than my fair share. I’ve long been meaning to do something similar in the oven, on a smaller scale, and with an abundance of cabbage the time was now. I also decided to work in another long-time resident of the back shelf: miso. I just cannot seem to get through a container of miso so there it sits. (side note: someone needs to do us all a favor and write one of those 1000 Things to Do with Miso books.) Thankfully, it’s a good keeper but a light went off. A tangy miso vinaigrette would be wonderful on roasted cabbage. An idea was born.

I roasted wedges of cabbage until golden brown and crispy, then smeared an easy miso vinaigrette on top. A few more minutes in the oven to caramelize and meld and I had a very delicious dinner. Too often some of these quarantine meals can seem slapdash and oddly put together. Luckily, this is not one of those. The cabbage is tender and crispy at the same time, the outer layers browning up nicely in the oven. The dressing is tangy and a bit earthy, adding just the right amount of flavor. It’s a really nice side dish to roasted meats but I ate a big plate of just this and some roasted asparagus tossed in the same vinaigrette for dinner the other night and was quite satisfied. Quarantine cooking doesn’t have to be boring. Think creatively, use what you have and go easy on yourself. And for crying out loud, stay home. Please stay home.

STRESS THERAPY BAKING FACTOR: EVERYTHING IS A WIN AT THIS POINT. We’re all going stir crazy and that’s ok because it’s a small price to pay to deal with this pandemic. Just stay home. Dig into the things you have around your house. Use what you have. Think outside the box. Keep store trips to the bare minimum. Make rather than buy. If you want pasta and don’t have it, make it. It’s just eggs and flour. Eat that oatmeal you’ve been avoiding. Repurpose. Turn that rice into a bunch of different things – ever made congee? It’s delicious and the perfect use for leftovers. Enjoy every damn cookie. There are a billon resources on the internet to help you – google is your friend. And support your local restaurants! Order take out or delivery when you can. They are struggling right now. I cannot emphasize this enough – THEY ARE STRUGGLING. I’m not sure what will survive when we come out of this so do what little part you can.

eleven years ago: Khachpuri (cheesy Georgian bread)
ten years ago: Oatmeal Jam, Hot Cross Buns
nine years ago: Guinness Stout Floats
eight years ago: Chocolate Banoffee Tart, Greek Sunday Lunch
seven years ago: Lemon Tart for Polish Easter
six years ago: Guinness Crème Anglaise
five years ago: Flourless Chocolate Cookies
four years ago: Potato Goat Cheese Strudel, Chouquette, Soft Potato Rolls
three years ago: Old School Garlic Bread, Key Lime Bundt Cake
two years ago: Easter Recipe Round Up (and some polka favorites)
last year: Sourdough Spätzle

ROASTED CABBAGE WITH MISO VINAIGRETTE
Serves 3 as a side but can easily be doubled or halved
In the true spirit of sparse larders, use what you have. No miso? Use half as much mustard and adjust to taste. Maple syrup low? Agave, honey or any sugar will work. If you have another type of cabbage in the fridge, say napa or savoy, use it. No olive oil? Fine, use what you have.

½ head cabbage, red or green
Olive oil
Kosher salt
Ground black pepper

for the vinaigrette:
1 Tablespoon white miso
2 Tablespoons cider vinegar
½ teaspoon maple syrup
1 garlic clove, finely minced
1 Tablespoon olive oil
Few grinds black pepper
Pinch of crushed red chili flakes

1. Preheat the oven to 450°F and place a rack in the lower third.
2. Cut the cabbage in half and cut each half into 3 wedges, taking care to keep the core intact as it will hold the wedges together.
3. Drizzle about a Tablespoon of olive oil into a heavy sheet pan.
4. Place the cabbage cut side down into the pan, give it a little push to coat then flip each piece and do the same to lightly coat each piece. Top each wedge with a pinch each of salt and pepper.
5. Roast 20 minutes.
6. While the cabbage is roasting, make the vinaigrette: in a small bowl, whisk together the miso and vinegar until smooth.
7. Add the maple syrup, garlic, oil, pepper and chili flakes, whisk to combine. Set aside until needed.
8. After 20 minutes of roasting, flip each cabbage wedge and roast another 15 minutes.
9. Whisk the vinaigrette to combine, spoon a bit over each wedge, smearing it a bit here and there, and roast another 5 minutes.
10. Serve hot or room temperature.