the better combination … Raspberry Rhubarb Tart

It’s a strange time. Isolation, fear, uneasiness and anger. We are in the midst of a change, a much-needed change. Oftentimes, I’m not too sure what to do or say, fearful of doing or saying the wrong thing but I am so over that right now. I’m listening. I’m reading, learning as much as I can to better understand my privilege and implicit biases. I’m asking questions. I’m thinking. And I do what I do when I have a lot of thoughts rattling around in my head that need sorting: I’m baking.

Baking has always been what I turn to when I’m anxious or need to think or can’t sleep. Lately, it’s been all three. Some people exercise, I bake. The simple act of making, kneading or rolling a dough, chopping things up and carefully folding ingredients together has a calming nature and brings clarity. It’s something I’ve turned to time and again during the last several months and especially the last several weeks.

After tossing and turning one recent night, I gave up and instinctively went to the kitchen where I pulled out butter and flour and sugar. The idea was to make a few tarts with some gorgeous rhubarb I had in the fridge and sort out my thoughts (reminder: support your local farmers in these tough times!) Normally, the inclination is to combine rhubarb with strawberries, but I have to say, I don’t particularly care for baked strawberries. I used to but things change and I’ve come around to believe the combo we should all be doing is raspberry-rhubarb. It is so much better, the tartness of both fruits complement each other nicely and the result is much fuller flavored and somehow juicier. I have no idea why I haven’t been doing this all along.

While listening to an interview with Robin DiAngelo, I rolled and cut and prodded the dough into nine small tart rings. I threw them into the freezer, made a streusel with anger and frustration, ordered her book, and went back to bed. A few hours later, I listened to more interviews, combined rhubarb with juicy raspberries, tumbled big spoonfuls into the frozen shells, sprinkling fat streusel crumbles on top. Baked until bubbly and golden, they smelled heavenly.

I sat on my step stool, in my dirty kitchen surrounded by unwashed dishes, and ate a warm tart while considering my next move. Wiping sticky fruit juice and buttery crumbs from my chin, I picked up the phone and called my senators and my congressman and gave the nice people who answered the phones my full two cents. (If you haven’t contacted your representation, start right now. They really do need to hear from their constituents or we’re never going to get anywhere. It isn’t scary at all, sometimes you’ll get voicemail but more often you’ll get a very nice intern like I did. You can start here: www.usa.gov ) We’ve got to make this better. We’ve got to elect people that will make changes to the status quo. We all need to be allies, stand up and speak out. And for crying out loud, VOTE. VOTE IN EVERY ELECTION – local elections matter too. If you’re not registered, do it right this very second – www.usa.gov/register-to-vote Be the change. Oh, and another thing … wear the damn mask. This pandemic is serious. Do not be complacent.

STRESS THERAPY BAKING FACTOR. GOES WITHOUT SAYING. Do what you need to do. For me, involved baking projects clear my head particularly if a dough of some kind is involved. Yeasted bread or pastry, doesn’t matter, I just like getting my hands in there and mashing something. Half the time, I don’t even eat them, just release them into the world and feel better about things for a little while. It helps.

Other rhubarb recipes: Rhubarb Beer Jam, Buttermilk Panna Cotta with Vanilla Cardamom Roasted Rhubarb, Rhubarb Syrup, Rhubarb Custard Pie,

And yes, a Strawberry Rhubarb Pie recipe too … Strawberry Rhubarb Crumble Pie

RASPBERRY RHUBARB TARTS
Makes one 9” tart, serving 6-8
While I originally made nine smaller individual tarts, they were so damn good I made the recipe again as one large 9” tart which was a bit less fussy.

for the pastry:
1 cup unbleached all-purpose flour
2 ½ Tablespoons sugar
1/8 teaspoon kosher salt
6 Tablespoons cold unsalted butter, ½” pieces
1 Tablespoon cold water
1 large egg yolk

for the filling:
8 oz rhubarb, diced (about 2 cups)
½ cup sugar
½ teaspoon vanilla extract
Pinch of kosher salt
8 oz fresh raspberries (about 1 ½ cups)
1 Tablespoon cornstarch

for the streusel:
¼ cup unbleached all-purpose flour
2 Tablespoons light brown sugar
1 Tablespoons sugar
pinch of kosher salt
2 Tablespoons unsalted butter, cold

1. For the pastry: In the work bowl of a food processor, pulse the flour, sugar and salt.
2. Add the cold butter cubes and pulse 6 or 7 times until butter is the size of peas.
3. In a small bowl, combine the yolk and the cold water.
4. Pour the yolk/water into the work bowl and process until dough comes together.
5. Turn the dough out on the work surface and knead a few times to bring all the dry crumbs together.
6. Pat into a round shape, wrap in plastic and refrigerate at least ½ hour. (Will keep refrigerated for 2 days tightly wrapped or frozen up to 2 months. Defrost overnight in the fridge.)
7. For the streusel: in a small bowl combine both sugars, salt and flour.
8. Add the butter and rub in with your fingers until well blended and clumpy. Refrigerate at least 30 minutes to firm up. Can be made several days in advance or frozen for up to two months.
9. To assemble: Unwrap the pastry and give it 5 minutes or so to warm up a bit and make rolling easier. While that’s happening, dig out your 9” tart pan with a removable bottom and a line a sheet pan with a piece of parchment paper.
10. Place the pastry on a lightly floured surface and dust with flour.
11. Roll the pastry, from the center out moving the dough frequently to avoid sticking, to an 11” diameter and about 1/8” thick. Flour any sticky spots as needed.
12. Lightly flour the top of the dough and roll it up on the rolling pin.
13. Slide the tart pan in place and unroll the pastry over the tart pan, quickly easing the dough into the pan. If the pastry breaks off against the pan edges, do not fret, it can be easily patched.
14. Make sure the pastry fills all the flutes of the pan, nudging it where it needs to go and using excess pastry to patch any holes.
15. Roll the pin over the top of the pan to cut off any excess pastry. Save scraps for another use.
16. Transfer the pan to the parchment lined sheet pan and freeze for at least 30 minutes (or overnight.)
17. Preheat the oven to 375°F with a rack in the lower third.
18. For the filling: in a medium bowl, combine the rhubarb, sugar and vanilla and let sit for 30 minutes to macerate.
19. Add the raspberries, salt and cornstarch, stirring gently to combine.
20. Remove the tart pan from the freezer and pour the filling into the shell.
21. Crumble the chilled streusel over the top of the tart.
22. Bake for 30-35 minutes, rotating the pan halfway through baking, until golden brown and bubbling. Check halfway through baking; if the streusel browns too quickly, cover with a piece of foil.
23. Transfer to a wire rack and cool completely.
24. Remove the tart from the pan. If there’s any sticking, gently free the pan from any thickened juices with a paring knife.
25. The tart is best enjoyed the day of baking. Keep any leftovers tightly wrapped at room temperature for a few days.

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