When did fruit salads fall out of favor? Exactly when did they universally become a bowl of underripe cantaloupe, watermelon chunks, tasteless strawberries, hard pineapple and red grapes? What happened to those intricately carved watermelons that looked like baskets or whales filled with fresh, flavorful fruit and the judicious use of a melon baller? Remember when you could order a fruit salad on a restaurant menu and it was good? As a kid I used to make really elaborate fruit salads, prettily fanned out on a plate in mosaic patterns with a bowl of berry yogurt in the center for dipping. I haven’t done that in years. I think it’s time to reclaim the damn fruit salad.
I have an abundance of peaches at the moment, the result of my brilliant idea to get a summer subscription of Georgia peaches. They are wonderful, truly wonderful, but I can’t seem to get through a shipment before the next one arrives and that’s created a bit of a backlog. First world problems, yes, I know. I’ve made ice cream and sorbets, a pie or two and last night a really wonderful salad with salty cheese and a mint vinaigrette. A delight. The best fruit salad I’ve had in a long, long while.
The peaches are not my only abundance problem right now. The mint in my garden plot is rather plentiful. No, that doesn’t quite adequately describe what is happening. My mint is a beast that requires an aggressive trim at least twice a week to beat it into submission. I’m constantly looking for things to do with it as one cannot live on mojitos alone (news flash). I love mint + peaches so I dug up a vinaigrette recipe I haven’t made in far too long. A bunch of mint, bright lime, a bit of honey; it is lovely and exceptionally good with summer stone fruits.
Anyway, I was thinking some salty feta would be a nice addition but a trip to the farmers market had me throwing a favorite cheese into my bag from a WI vendor called Brunkow. I just call it “Brunkow Cheese” but technically it’s a ‘juustoleipa” – a mild, salty, firm, sort of bouncy cheese from Finland that holds up to heat. It reminds me a lot of halloumi or the Greek kasseri. You grill or pan fry to get a toasty crust and a melty center. If you can find this type of cheese in your store, by all means use it, otherwise look for the more readily available halloumi or kasseri as it essentially works the same. Toasty melty salty cheese, mint and peaches are a wonderful combination, especially on these hot days when you really don’t feel much like eating anything.
STRESS BAKING THERAPY FACTOR: COOL RUNNINGS. I’m not even entirely sure what I mean by that but I’ve watched 1,764 hours of Olympic coverage in the fist six days and the Jamaican bobsled team is on my mind tonight. Weird, I know. But really, I think the gist is it’s hot and I don’t feel like eating a damn thing and yet, this salad went down really well. Fresh, bright, easy and refreshing; it’s all that summer food should be.
additional peach recipes: Roasted Peach Sour Cream Ice Cream, Peach Buttermilk Ice Cream, Peach Sorbetto, Peach Frozen Custard, Peach Blackberry Cobbler, Ginger Peach Hand Pies, Peach Pandowdy, Peach Crostada, Bourbon Peach Rugelah
twelve years ago: Tart Tips & Tart Dough, Sour Cherry Sorbet
eleven years ago: Betty’s Pies exploring Minnesota
ten years ago: Life in Southwest France
nine years ago: Bastille Day Bomb Pops, Sour Cherry Slab Pie
eight years ago: Spicy Pineapple Paletas, Hungarian Cherry Soup
seven years ago: Guinness Crème Anglaise
six years ago: Blender Gazpacho
five years ago: Blueberries & Cream Popsicles, Beef Bulgogi & Rice Cake Skewers, Thai Grilled Coconut Rice & Banana
four years ago: Salmon Rilettes
three years ago: Greek Salad Piadini Sandwiches
two years ago: Strawberry Mascarpone Galette
last year: Pico de Gallo White Bean Salad, Simple Summer Fruit Tarts
PEACHES, HALLOUMI & MINT VINAGRETTE
Serves 2-3
Ripe, juicy peaches are pretty important for this one. This would also work well with nectarines, plums and probably even apricots. I might even consider plump, sweet cherries. I sometimes also like a sprinkle of Tajin on the peaches, that lime-chili-salt stuff that is weirdly addictive (I use Rancho Gordo’s version.)
for the mint vinaigrette:
¼ cup roughly chopped fresh mint (10g)
3 Tablespoons lime juice
1 Tablespoon white wine vinegar
1 Tablespoon honey
½ teaspoon kosher salt
1/8 tsp coarse ground pepper
⅓ cup extra-virgin olive oil
for the salad:
2 ripe peaches, pitted and thinly sliced
½ pound halloumi or kasseri (or juustoleipa cheese if you can find it)
Optional additions: arugula, Tajin (or cayenne)
- For the vinaigrette: add mint, lime juice, vinegar, honey, salt and pepper in a blender and process until smooth-ish.
- With the blender on low, drizzle in the olive oil and run until emulsified. Taste and adjust the seasoning if needed. It will be on the thin side. Set aside until needed. Vinaigrette is best within a few hours but will keep refrigerated for a few days though the freshness of the mint tends to fade a bit over time.
- For the salad: Leave the cheese in big pieces so it’s easier to handle, one or two pieces.
- Preheat a grill or or a dry non-stick pan over medium to medium high then cook the cheese until lightly browned and crusty on the outside and warm and melty on the inside. If in doubt, go with the lower temperature as the cheese will brown very quickly on a higher heat before it gets soft and melty on the inside.
- Cut the warm cheese into pieces.
- Divide the peaches and warm halloumi between two plates and drizzle a spoonful or two of the vinaigrette on top.
- If desired, top with a sprinkle or two of tajin (or a pinch of cayenne) and a sprig of fresh mint. For more of a salad, placed the peaches and cheese on a bed of arugula.
- Serve immediately while the cheese is warm.
STRESSCAKE 